Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus HELIOCARE 360° Gel Oil-Free SPF50 PA++++
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus HELIOCARE 360° Gel Oil-Free SPF50 PA++++ This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus HELIOCARE 360° Gel Oil-Free SPF50 PA++++
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dibutyl Adipate
Propanediol
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Niacinamide
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Caprylyl Methicone
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
Glycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Butylene Glycol
Oryza Sativa Extract
Oryza Sativa Germ Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Monascus/Rice Ferment
Behenyl Alcohol
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Decyl Glucoside
Tromethamine
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Adenosine
Xanthan Gum
T-Butyl Alcohol
Tocopherol
Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment
Aspergillus Ferment
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Pentylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Arginine
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid
Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Titanium Dioxide
Hexylene Glycol
C14-22 Alcohols
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Nylon-12
Myristyl Alcohol
Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate
Ceteareth-25
Phenoxyethanol
Polypodium Leucotomos Leaf Extract
Ferulic Acid
Caffeic Acid
Physalis Angulata Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Melanin
Myristyl Glucoside
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Pvp Crosspolymer
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Alumina
PPG-15 Stearyl Ether Benzoate
Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate
Camellia Sinensis Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Phytosphingosine Hcl
Plankton Extract
Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate Hcl
Panthenyl Triacetate
Parfum
Simethicone
Oxothiazolidine
Disodium EDTA
Silica
Ethyl Linoleate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Oleyl Alcohol
Propylene Glycol
Lecithin
Sodium Benzoate
Linalool
Limonene
Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Arginine, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Titanium Dioxide, Hexylene Glycol, C14-22 Alcohols, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Nylon-12, Myristyl Alcohol, Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate, Ceteareth-25, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Phenoxyethanol, Polypodium Leucotomos Leaf Extract, Ferulic Acid, Caffeic Acid, Physalis Angulata Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Melanin, Myristyl Glucoside, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Caprylyl Methicone, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Pvp Crosspolymer, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Alumina, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether Benzoate, Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Phytosphingosine Hcl, Plankton Extract, Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate Hcl, Panthenyl Triacetate, Parfum, Simethicone, Oxothiazolidine, Disodium EDTA, Silica, Ethyl Linoleate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Oleyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Lecithin, Sodium Benzoate, Tocopherol, Linalool, Limonene
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Methicone is a synthetic and lightweight silicone fluid. It gives products a silky, dry-touch finish without the heaviness of pure oils.
Though the EU CosIng Database lists this ingredient as a skin conditioner, it is also used for sensory reasons. It spreads easily, cuts greasiness, and reduces tackiness.
This ingredient is volatile which means it will mostly evaporate (but it evaporates slower than older cyclomethicones, like Cyclotetrasiloxane).
Typical concentration ranges from 1-30% depending on if it's being used to tweak the feel of a product or acting as the main emollient.
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).
DHHB is well-liked for:
DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.
This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone (aka Iscotrizinol) is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that mainly absorbs UVB and a bit of UVA II light.
This ingredient is great at preventing sunburn but doesn't cover the deep UVA I range. This is why it's often paired with a UVA filter like Avobenzone or Bemotrizinol.
Two of its biggest selling points are efficiency and stability:
Most of the other chemical filters are considered "photostable" if they can last for two hours.
Because this ingredient is oil-loving, it can sit neatly into the oil phase of emulsions and shines in water-repellent/water-resistant formulations.
The EU and Canada allow it to be used up to 10% and Japan allows it up to 5%.
Unfortunately, it's not yet an FDA approved sunscreen agent so you won't be able to find it in sunscreens in the US.
Safety-wise, it has a pretty solid record: the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has reviewed it and found low skin absorption, no capacity to produce skin irritation or photo-irritation.
In vitro testing has found less than 0.1% of the applied dose is absorbed by the skin over 24 hours (mostly due to its large molecule size).
Fun fact: This ingredient even has anti-inflammatory properties similar to those of ketoprofe, an anti-inflammatory medication.
Ethylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.
This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.
Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.
It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.
Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.
In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.
Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.