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Skin science article

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Isntree TW - Real Eye Cream

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Isntree TW - Real Eye Cream This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Isntree TW - Real Eye Cream

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dibutyl Adipate

Propanediol

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Niacinamide

Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Caprylyl Methicone

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Butylene Glycol

Oryza Sativa Extract

Oryza Sativa Germ Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract

Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract

Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Monascus/Rice Ferment

Behenyl Alcohol

Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Decyl Glucoside

Tromethamine

Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Adenosine

Xanthan Gum

T-Butyl Alcohol

Tocopherol

Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment

Aspergillus Ferment

Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate

Pentylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Dipropylene Glycol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Squalane

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Dimethicone

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Arachidyl Alcohol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Cetearyl Alcohol

C12-16 Alcohols

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Erythritol

Polysorbate 60

Glyceryl Stearate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Stearyl Alcohol

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Arachidyl Glucoside

Palmitic Acid

Allantoin

Illicium Verum Fruit Extract

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Isohexadecane

Persea Gratissima Oil

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Polysorbate 80

Disodium EDTA

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Ceramide NP

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Sorbitan Oleate

Glucose

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Phosphate

Deoxyphytantriyl Palmitamide Mea

Polysorbate 20

Cholesterol

Lecithin

Phosphatidylcholine

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Astaxanthin

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Bifida Ferment Lysate, Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Squalane, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, C12-16 Alcohols, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Erythritol, Polysorbate 60, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Stearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Arachidyl Glucoside, Palmitic Acid, Allantoin, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Persea Gratissima Oil, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Adenosine, Polysorbate 80, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Ceramide NP, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Sorbitan Oleate, Glucose, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Phosphate, Pentylene Glycol, Deoxyphytantriyl Palmitamide Mea, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 20, Cholesterol, Lecithin, Phosphatidylcholine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Astaxanthin, Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).

Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.

Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.

In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  4. 04Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  5. 05In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  6. 06While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  7. 07Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  8. 08This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
  9. 09This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures…
  10. 10Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
  11. 11Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
  12. 12It plays several roles in a formula:
  13. 13Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
  14. 14Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
  15. 15However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
  16. 16Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
  17. 17Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
  18. 18Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
  19. 19This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
  20. 20A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

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03

Comparison edit

Read side by side