Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus ma:nyo Hyaluron Hydrating Sun Stick
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus ma:nyo Hyaluron Hydrating Sun Stick This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range, though its SPF isn't
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus ma:nyo Hyaluron Hydrating Sun Stick
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range, though its SPF isn't confirmed on file yet.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dibutyl Adipate
Propanediol
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Niacinamide
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Caprylyl Methicone
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
Glycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Butylene Glycol
Oryza Sativa Extract
Oryza Sativa Germ Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Monascus/Rice Ferment
Behenyl Alcohol
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Decyl Glucoside
Tromethamine
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Adenosine
Xanthan Gum
T-Butyl Alcohol
Tocopherol
Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment
Aspergillus Ferment
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Pentylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Polyethylene
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Isopropyl Palmitate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Ozokerite
Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
Vinyldimethicone
Polysilicone-15
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Glyceryl Caprylate
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Parfum
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Squalane
Panthenol
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Triticum Vulgare Sprout Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract
Brassica Oleracea Italica Sprout Extract
Medicago Sativa Extract
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract
Bambusa Vulgaris Water
Bambusa Vulgaris Shoot Extract
Hydrangea Macrophylla Leaf Extract
Ceramide NP
Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Potassium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Polyethylene, Caprylyl Methicone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Dibutyl Adipate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ozokerite, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Vinyldimethicone, Polysilicone-15, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Glyceryl Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Parfum, Tocopherol, Water, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Squalane, Panthenol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Triticum Vulgare Sprout Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Sprout Extract, Medicago Sativa Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Water, Bambusa Vulgaris Shoot Extract, Hydrangea Macrophylla Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Caprylyl Methicone is a synthetic and lightweight silicone fluid. It gives products a silky, dry-touch finish without the heaviness of pure oils.
Though the EU CosIng Database lists this ingredient as a skin conditioner, it is also used for sensory reasons. It spreads easily, cuts greasiness, and reduces tackiness.
This ingredient is volatile which means it will mostly evaporate (but it evaporates slower than older cyclomethicones, like Cyclotetrasiloxane).
Typical concentration ranges from 1-30% depending on if it's being used to tweak the feel of a product or acting as the main emollient.
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Dibutyl Adipate is a lightweight, oil-soluble ester that acts as an emollient and solvent. It helps products spread more easily and leaves a soft, silky, dry-touch finish without being greasy.
You'll likely see this ingredient in sunscreens because it does a nice job dissolving UV filters and keeping them evenly distributed.
This ingredient has been found to be safe as used in cosmetics, wasn't a skin or eye irritant in clinical patch testing, and wasn't phototoxic.
In a clinical comedogenicity test, this ingredient tested negative so it isn't likely to clog pores.
Typical use levels are about 5-8% for sunscreens + nail products, but can range from 0.005%-8% depending on the product.
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).
DHHB is well-liked for:
DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.
This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.
Ethylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.
This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.
Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.
It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.
Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.
In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.
Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!