Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Numbuzin 9+ NAD+ Bio Super Defense Glow Sunscreen SPF 50

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Numbuzin 9+ NAD+ Bio Super Defense Glow Sunscreen SPF 50 This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV rang

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Numbuzin 9+ NAD+ Bio Super Defense Glow Sunscreen SPF 50

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dibutyl Adipate

Propanediol

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Niacinamide

Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Caprylyl Methicone

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Butylene Glycol

Oryza Sativa Extract

Oryza Sativa Germ Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract

Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract

Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Monascus/Rice Ferment

Behenyl Alcohol

Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Decyl Glucoside

Tromethamine

Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Adenosine

Xanthan Gum

T-Butyl Alcohol

Tocopherol

Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment

Aspergillus Ferment

Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate

Pentylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Dimethicone

Vp/Eicosene Copolymer

Cetearyl Alcohol

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Phenoxyethanol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Tocopheryl Acetate

Panthenol

Allantoin

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Acetyl Tyrosine

Betula Alba Juice

Centella Asiatica Extract

Resveratrol

Proline

Adenosine Triphosphate

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract

Polyglutamic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Potassium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Copper Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-2

Tripeptide-3

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

Homosalate

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Octocrylene

Water, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Tyrosine, Betula Alba Juice, Centella Asiatica Extract, Resveratrol, Proline, Adenosine Triphosphate, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Polyglutamic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Tripeptide-3, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Octocrylene

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate is a synthetic polymer. It's a long chain built from acrylic acid units and each unit carries a fatty "tail" derived form a C10-30 alcohol.

Those oil-loving tails allow this ingredient to thicken oil phases, hold emulsions together, and cuts the tacky/greasy feel of heavy formulas.

Typical use levels sit around 0.1-3%, with 0.3-3% more common in leave-on emulsions.

This ingredient was reviewed as part of a group of 126 acrylates and concluded to be safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel.

Though acrylate contact allergy is real and well-documented, allergy risk is quite low. The cases of documented contact allergy are caused by unreacted monomers (more commonly found in gel nails, dental resins, and adhesives).

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.

As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.

This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 031,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
  4. 04It is a:
  5. 05Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  6. 06Emollient, helping to soften skin
  7. 07Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  8. 08Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
  9. 09Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
  10. 10As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
  11. 11It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
  12. 12A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
  13. 13Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  14. 14Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  15. 15Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  16. 16Dextrin is a starch-derived polysaccharide. It's made by partially breaking down corn, potato, or other plant starches.
  17. 17Think of it as "half-processed" starch; it's less complex than the original but not fully broken down into sugar like maltodextrin.
  18. 18In cosmetics, it mainly functions as a bulking agent, viscosity controller, binder, and absorbent. It helps thicken products, stabilize powders, and get certain textures a less "wet" feel.
  19. 19This ingredient has a pretty solid safety profile; it's recognized as a safe food additive and its large molecular size means it doesn't meaningfully penetrate skin.
  20. 20Human repeat insult patch tests using a rinse-off facial product containing 42.69% dextrin found no skin irritation or sensitization in 54 subjects.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side