Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus The History of Whoo Gongjinhyang Jin Hae Yoon Sun Cream SPF 50+ PA+++

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus The History of Whoo Gongjinhyang Jin Hae Yoon Sun Cream SPF 50+ PA+++ This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This hybrid sunscreen covers the full

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus The History of Whoo Gongjinhyang Jin Hae Yoon Sun Cream SPF 50+ PA+++

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dibutyl Adipate

Propanediol

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Niacinamide

Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Caprylyl Methicone

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Butylene Glycol

Oryza Sativa Extract

Oryza Sativa Germ Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract

Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract

Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Monascus/Rice Ferment

Behenyl Alcohol

Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Decyl Glucoside

Tromethamine

Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Adenosine

Xanthan Gum

T-Butyl Alcohol

Tocopherol

Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment

Aspergillus Ferment

Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate

Pentylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract

Cyclopentasiloxane

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract

Thymus Vulgaris Extract

Velvet Extract

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid

Dipropylene Glycol

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Titanium Dioxide

Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate

Cetyl Phosphate

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Glyceryl Stearate

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Stearic Acid

Panthenol

Poncirus Trifoliata Fruit Extract

Angelica Tenuissima Root Extract

Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract

Platycodon Grandiflorus Root Extract

Cnidium Officinale Root Extract

Schizonepeta Tenuifolia Extract

Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract

Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract

Morus Alba Fruit Extract

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Typha Angustifolia Spike Extract

Paeonia Lactiflora Extract

Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Angelica Gigas Root Extract

Saposhnikovia Divaricata Root Extract

Atractylodes Macrocephala Root Extract

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract

Chaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract

Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract

Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract

Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract

Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate

Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate

Hexyl Laurate

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Methicone

Alumina

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol

Behenic Acid

Myristic Acid

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

C14-22 Alcohols

Squalane

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Triethylhexanoin

Arachidyl Glucoside

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Ceramide NP

Cholesterol

Dimethicone

PEG-100 Stearate

Triethanolamine

Silica

Alcohol Denat.

Sorbitol

Lecithin

Polysorbate 80

Cetearyl Alcohol

Vp/Eicosene Copolymer

Mica

CI 77491

Trisodium EDTA

Parfum

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Benzyl Salicylate

Citronellol

Coumarin

Geraniol

Hydroxycitronellal

Limonene

Linalool

Water, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Extract, Velvet Extract, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tromethamine, Titanium Dioxide, Glycerin, Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate, Cetyl Phosphate, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Stearic Acid, Panthenol, Poncirus Trifoliata Fruit Extract, Angelica Tenuissima Root Extract, Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract, Platycodon Grandiflorus Root Extract, Cnidium Officinale Root Extract, Schizonepeta Tenuifolia Extract, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Morus Alba Fruit Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Typha Angustifolia Spike Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Extract, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Saposhnikovia Divaricata Root Extract, Atractylodes Macrocephala Root Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Chaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate, Hexyl Laurate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Methicone, Alumina, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Behenic Acid, Myristic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C14-22 Alcohols, Squalane, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Triethylhexanoin, Arachidyl Glucoside, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Dimethicone, PEG-100 Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Triethanolamine, Silica, Alcohol Denat., Sorbitol, Lecithin, Polysorbate 80, Tocopherol, Carbomer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Mica, CI 77491, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Trisodium EDTA, Parfum, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Salicylate, Citronellol, Coumarin, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Limonene, Linalool

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).

DHHB is well-liked for:

DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.

This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Ginseng root is a well-loved ingredient in Asian skincare for good reason. It hydrates the skin, soothes irritation, and helps even out skin tone.

In traditional East Asian medicine, ginseng has been used for centuries both as food and as a healing remedy, and modern research continues to confirm its skin benefits.

One of the standout features of ginseng is its ability to improve blood circulation and oxygen delivery to the skin, bringing a fresh supply of nutrients to support overall skin health. It also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This helps to protect your skin against damage from UV exposure, pollution, and daily stress.

Additionally, studies suggest that ginseng may help reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production.

There are different types of ginseng used in skincare, and while they all share core benefits, their potency can vary.

Most products use fresh or white ginseng because it’s more affordable. However, red ginseng, produced by steaming the root, contains higher levels of ginsenosides, which are compounds with proven anti-aging effects. These ginsenosides help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.

Note: All forms of ginseng are listed simply as “Panax ginseng” in ingredient lists. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about which type of ginseng is used in their ingredients.

For general antioxidant benefits, any ginseng extract will do, but for wrinkle care or firmer skin, red or fermented ginseng is often more effective.

In short, ginseng is a powerhouse ingredient that supports hydration, radiance, and resilience.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 031,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
  4. 04It is a:
  5. 05Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  6. 06Emollient, helping to soften skin
  7. 07Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  8. 08Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
  9. 09Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
  10. 10As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
  11. 11It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
  12. 12A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
  13. 13Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
  14. 14Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
  15. 15The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
  16. 16Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
  17. 17Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  18. 18Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  19. 19Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  20. 20Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side