Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus The Saem Eco Earth Waterproof Sun Stick SPF 50+ PA++++
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus The Saem Eco Earth Waterproof Sun Stick SPF 50+ PA++++ This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingr
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus The Saem Eco Earth Waterproof Sun Stick SPF 50+ PA++++
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dibutyl Adipate
Propanediol
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Niacinamide
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Caprylyl Methicone
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
Glycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Butylene Glycol
Oryza Sativa Extract
Oryza Sativa Germ Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Monascus/Rice Ferment
Behenyl Alcohol
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Decyl Glucoside
Tromethamine
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Adenosine
Xanthan Gum
T-Butyl Alcohol
Tocopherol
Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment
Aspergillus Ferment
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Pentylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Synthetic Wax
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Silica
Homosalate
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Silica Silylate
Octocrylene
Cetyl Alcohol
Dipropylene Glycol
Epilobium Angustifolium Extract
Hydrolyzed Acacia Macrostachya Seed Extract
Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Maltodextrin
Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil
Madecassoside
Centella Asiatica Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract
Viola Mandshurica Flower Extract
Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract
Cnidium Monnieri Fruit Extract
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Solidago Virgaurea Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Octyldodecanol
Octyldodecyl Oleate
Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate
Alcohol Denat.
Parfum
Synthetic Wax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Silica, Homosalate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Silica Silylate, Octocrylene, Cetyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Water, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Hydrolyzed Acacia Macrostachya Seed Extract, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Maltodextrin, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Madecassoside, Centella Asiatica Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Viola Mandshurica Flower Extract, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract, Cnidium Monnieri Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Solidago Virgaurea Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Adenosine, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Octyldodecanol, Octyldodecyl Oleate, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Alcohol Denat., Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Parfum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).
DHHB is well-liked for:
DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.
This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate is a synthetic polymer. It's a long chain built from acrylic acid units and each unit carries a fatty "tail" derived form a C10-30 alcohol.
Those oil-loving tails allow this ingredient to thicken oil phases, hold emulsions together, and cuts the tacky/greasy feel of heavy formulas.
Typical use levels sit around 0.1-3%, with 0.3-3% more common in leave-on emulsions.
This ingredient was reviewed as part of a group of 126 acrylates and concluded to be safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel.
Though acrylate contact allergy is real and well-documented, allergy risk is quite low. The cases of documented contact allergy are caused by unreacted monomers (more commonly found in gel nails, dental resins, and adhesives).
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!