Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Beauty Pie Super Healthy Skin Daily Moisture Lotion Versus Clarins Rose Radiance Peptide Day Cream

Beauty Pie Super Healthy Skin Daily Moisture Lotion Versus Clarins Rose Radiance Peptide Day Cream This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Saccharide Isomerate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This anti-aging day m

Beauty Pie Super Healthy Skin Daily Moisture Lotion Versus Clarins Rose Radiance Peptide Day Cream

This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Saccharide Isomerate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Cetyl Alcohol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Lauroyl Lysine

Phenoxyethanol

Squalane

Saccharide Isomerate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Physalis Angulata Extract

Chlorphenesin

Polysorbate 20

Polysorbate 60

Sodium Hydroxide

Disodium EDTA

Sorbitan Isostearate

Citric Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Citrate

Tocopherol

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Daphne Odora Callus Extract

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Dextran

Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Lauroyl Lysine, Phenoxyethanol, Squalane, Saccharide Isomerate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Physalis Angulata Extract, Chlorphenesin, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Citrate, Tocopherol, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Daphne Odora Callus Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Dextran

Pentylene Glycol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil

Mica

CI 77891

Carbomer

Cetearyl Glucoside

Xylitylglucoside

Hydroxyacetophenone

Parfum

Anhydroxylitol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Dimethiconol

Xylitol

Sodium Lactate

Glucose

Harungana Madagascariensis Extract

Marrubium Vulgare Extract

Coco-Glucoside

Balanites Roxburghii Seed Oil

Phenethyl Alcohol

Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract

Pancratium Maritimum Extract

Ulex Europaeus Leaf/Root/Stem Extract

Punica Granatum Bark Extract

CI 14700

CI 17200

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Lapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Maris Sal

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Mica, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, CI 77891, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Xylitylglucoside, Hydroxyacetophenone, Parfum, Anhydroxylitol, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethiconol, Xylitol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Lactate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glucose, Harungana Madagascariensis Extract, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Coco-Glucoside, Balanites Roxburghii Seed Oil, Phenethyl Alcohol, Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Ulex Europaeus Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Punica Granatum Bark Extract, CI 14700, CI 17200, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Lapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Maris Sal, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.

Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.

Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.

Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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