Skin science article
BeautyAct 20% Vita-C Brightening Serum Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Serum
BeautyAct 20% Vita-C Brightening Serum Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Tocopherol to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This barrier-repair serum is
BeautyAct 20% Vita-C Brightening Serum Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Tocopherol to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Linoleic Acid and Linolenic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
C15-19 Alkane
Propanediol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Methylpropanediol
Squalane
Glycerin
Tocopherol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Phenoxyethanol
Disodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum
Ethylhexylglycerin
Citric Acid
Polysorbate 60
Sodium Lactate
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, C15-19 Alkane, Propanediol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Methylpropanediol, Squalane, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Hydroxide
Diheptyl Succinate
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide Eos
Ceramide NP
Ceramide Ns
Caprooyl Sphingosine
Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Caprooyl Phytosphingosine
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cholesterol
Ceramide AP
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables
Prunus Domestica Seed Oil
Lauryl Laurate
Glyceryl Behenate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Sodium Phytate
Trehalose
Isohexadecane
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Cetyl Alcohol
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Agar
Glyceryl Stearate
Ceteareth-25
Cetearyl Alcohol
Behenic Acid
Glyceryl Rosinate
Benzyl Alcohol
Water, Glycerin, Diheptyl Succinate, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Eos, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cholesterol, Ceramide AP, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables, Tocopherol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Lauryl Laurate, Glyceryl Behenate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Phytate, Trehalose, Isohexadecane, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Cetyl Alcohol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Agar, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-25, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behenic Acid, Glyceryl Rosinate, Citric Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.