Skin science article
Belif The True Cream Moisturizing Bomb Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides
Belif The True Cream Moisturizing Bomb Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Avena Sativa Kernel Extract and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydra
Belif The True Cream Moisturizing Bomb Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Avena Sativa Kernel Extract and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Cyclohexasiloxane
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Dipropylene Glycol
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
1,2-Hexanediol
Triethylhexanoin
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Stearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-40 Stearate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Nepeta Cataria Extract
Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract
Baptisia Tinctoria Root Extract
Stellaria Media Extract
Alchemilla Vulgaris Leaf Extract
Viola Tricolor Extract
Rosa Damascena Flower Extract
Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract
Althaea Officinalis Root Extract
Euphrasia Officinalis Extract
Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Extract
Achillea Millefolium Flower Extract
Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract
Menyanthes Trifoliata Leaf Extract
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Poncirus Trifoliata Fruit Extract
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract
C14-22 Alcohols
Squalane
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Arachidyl Glucoside
Ceramide NP
Cholesterol
Caprylyl Glycol
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Tocopherol
Panthenol
Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
Urea
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
Viscum Album Extract
Glycosyl Trehalose
Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Stearic Acid
Tromethamine
PEG-100 Stearate
Cetearyl Olivate
Palmitic Acid
Sorbitan Olivate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Carbomer
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
Xanthan Gum
Trisodium EDTA
Cetearyl Alcohol
Butylene Glycol
Dimethicone
Sorbitan Stearate
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Citrus Aurantifolia Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Limonene
Citronellol
Geraniol
Citral
Linalool
Water, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Dipropylene Glycol, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Triethylhexanoin, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Stearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Nepeta Cataria Extract, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract, Baptisia Tinctoria Root Extract, Stellaria Media Extract, Alchemilla Vulgaris Leaf Extract, Viola Tricolor Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Euphrasia Officinalis Extract, Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Extract, Achillea Millefolium Flower Extract, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Menyanthes Trifoliata Leaf Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Poncirus Trifoliata Fruit Extract, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, C14-22 Alcohols, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Arachidyl Glucoside, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Urea, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Viscum Album Extract, Glycosyl Trehalose, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Stearic Acid, Tromethamine, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Palmitic Acid, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Xanthan Gum, Trisodium EDTA, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Sorbitan Stearate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantifolia Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral, Linalool
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Propanediol
Sh-Polypeptide-121
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Niacinamide
Proline
Tocopheryl Acetate
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed
Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Ceramide AP
Cetearyl Glucoside
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Dilinoleic Acid
Benzyl Alcohol
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Bisabolol
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Erythritol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Glucose
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Phytosphingosine
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Polysorbate 20
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Glycine
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Benzoate
T-Butyl Alcohol
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Sodium Lactate
Triheptanoin
Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Propanediol, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Proline, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dilinoleic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Bisabolol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Dipropylene Glycol, Erythritol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Glyceryl Stearate, Phytosphingosine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polysorbate 20, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Glycine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Benzoate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Lactate, Triheptanoin, Xanthan Gum
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.