Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Benefit Cosmetics Total Moisture Facial Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Rescue Daily Face Cream

Benefit Cosmetics Total Moisture Facial Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Rescue Daily Face Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated

Benefit Cosmetics Total Moisture Facial Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Rescue Daily Face Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Hydrogenated Lanolin

Squalane

Glycerin

Methyl Trimethicone

Glyceryl Stearate

Stearyl Alcohol

PEG-8

Pentylene Glycol

Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride

Ceteth-20

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Dimethicone

Betaine

Decyloxazolidinone

Phenoxyethanol

Cetyl Alcohol

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Parfum

Steareth-25

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Steareth-21

Tetrasodium EDTA

Tocopheryl Acetate

Carbomer

Xylitylglucoside

Sorbitol

Linalool

Anhydroxylitol

Sodium Hydroxide

Algin

Xylitol

Hexyl Cinnamal

Limonene

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Cellulose Gum

Tocopherol

BHT

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydrogenated Lanolin, Squalane, Glycerin, Methyl Trimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, PEG-8, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Ceteth-20, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Dimethicone, Betaine, Decyloxazolidinone, Phenoxyethanol, Cetyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Parfum, Steareth-25, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Steareth-21, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carbomer, Xylitylglucoside, Sorbitol, Linalool, Anhydroxylitol, Sodium Hydroxide, Algin, Xylitol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Cellulose Gum, Tocopherol, BHT

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Caprylyl Glycol

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Ceramide NP

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Water, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glycerin, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hydroxide, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Polysorbate 80
  3. 03Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  4. 04Polysorbate 20
  5. 05Butylene Glycol
  6. 06Persea Gratissima Oil
  7. 07Glycerin
  8. 08Dimethicone
  9. 09Retinol
  10. 10Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
  11. 11Colloidal Oatmeal
  12. 12Tocopherol
  13. 13Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
  14. 14Ceramide NP
  15. 15Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
  16. 16Linoleic Acid
  17. 17Allantoin
  18. 18Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides
  19. 19Palmitic Acid
  20. 20Oleic Acid
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side