Beyer & Söhne Hautgel+ Anti-Aging Serum Versus Paula's Choice 25% Vitamin C + Glutathione Clinical Serum

Beyer & Söhne Hautgel+ Anti-Aging Serum Versus Paula's Choice 25% Vitamin C + Glutathione Clinical Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ectoin to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This brightening serum is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Pentylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Glycerin

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ectoin

Sodium Lactate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Resveratrol

Lactic Acid

Panthenol

Tetraacetylphytosphingosine

Ceramide NP

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide As

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Folic Acid

Hydroxyectoin

Maltodextrin

Sodium Phytate

Cholesterol

Dehydroxanthan Gum

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Glyceryl Stearate

Sucrose Distearate

Dipropylene Glycol

Sodium Hydroxide

Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate

Ethyl Oleate

Water, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Glycerin, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ectoin, Sodium Lactate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Resveratrol, Lactic Acid, Panthenol, Tetraacetylphytosphingosine, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Folic Acid, Hydroxyectoin, Maltodextrin, Sodium Phytate, Cholesterol, Dehydroxanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, Sucrose Distearate, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Ethyl Oleate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Dimethicone

C9-12 Alkane

Silica

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Xanthan Gum

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Cetyl Alcohol

Caprylyl Glycol

Lysine Carboxymethyl Cysteinate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Tocopherol

Glutathione

Sodium Citrate

Hexylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract

Urea

Mannitol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Sodium PCA

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Trehalose

Ascorbic Acid

Glucose

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Polyquaternium-51

Ergothioneine

Triacetin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Dimethicone, Glycerin, C9-12 Alkane, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Silica, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Lysine Carboxymethyl Cysteinate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Tocopherol, Glutathione, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Phytate, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Urea, Mannitol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium PCA, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Trehalose, Ascorbic Acid, Glucose, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Ergothioneine, Triacetin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) is one of the most stable vitamin C derivatives out there.

It's made by attaching a glucose molecule to ascorbic acid; this glucose "cap" shields the vitamin C from air, light, heat, and metal ions that normally cause pure ascorbic acid to oxidize.

Once on your skin, the enzyme alpha-glucosidase snips off the glucose and gradually releases active ascorbic acid right where it's needed. Basically, it behaves like a slow-release pro-vitamin C with less of a stinging that high-strength ascorbic acid can cause.

The research supports the classic vitamin C benefits as well. In lab and human studies, AA-2G slowed down the skin's production of melanin (the pigment behind dark spots) and helped shield skin cells against sun damage better than ascorbyl phosphate.

These studies also showed AA-2G released vitamin C over a longer period.

A frequently cited manufacturer trial found that a 2% AA-2G face cream significantly improved wrinkle depth and skin roughness after 45 days.

And in 2009, a clinical trial showed it meaningfully lightened dark patches on the gums compared to a placebo.

There's also collagen-synthesis support (since vitamin C is a required cofactor for that) and an antioxidant effect too.

Typical usage is usually between 0.5-5% and most studies/products land around 2%.

AA-2G performs best when formulated at a mildly acidic pH (~5-7) which is much gentler than the pH that pure vitamin C demands (~2.5-3.5).

Just one thing worth knowing: the in-skin conversation rate is only about 55-60% by weight. So a 5% AA-2G product delivers roughly 2.75-3% of actual active vitamin C. On top of that, skin absorption is relatively low because the ingredient is water-soluble.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.

Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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