Skin science article
Beyou Cosmetics Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid & Collagen Brightening Eye Treatment
Beyou Cosmetics Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid & Collagen Brightening Eye Treatment This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles. This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is fo
Beyou Cosmetics Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid & Collagen Brightening Eye Treatment
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles.
This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Dicaprylyl Ether
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Niacinamide
1,2-Hexanediol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Diisostearyl Malate
Pentylene Glycol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Panthenol
Caffeine
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Sorbitan Isostearate
Disodium EDTA
Ceramide NP
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopherol
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Potassium Hyaluronate
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Ether, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Diisostearyl Malate, Pentylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Panthenol, Caffeine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Disodium EDTA, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Potassium Hyaluronate
Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate
Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Propanediol
Collagen Amino Acids
Squalane
Squalene
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Asparagopsis Armata Extract
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
Phytosteryl Macadamiate
Acetyl Glucosamine
Acetyl Glutamine
Lecithin
Phospholipids
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Polyglutamic Acid
Phytosterols
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Oligopeptide-3
Oligopeptide-2
Oligopeptide-1
Hexapeptide-11
Tocopheryl Acetate
Folic Acid
Amylopectin
Phytosphingosine
Ceramide AP
Cholesterol
Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract
Lactic Acid
Myrica Cerifera Fruit Extract
Hydroxyacetophenone
Prunus Lannesiana Flower Extract
Akebia Quinata Stem Extract
Saccharomyces Lysate
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Ceramide EOP
Tripeptide-1
Caprylyl Glycol
Polysorbate 60
Hexylene Glycol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Butylene Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Carbomer
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Dextran
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Collagen Amino Acids, Squalane, Caffeine, Squalene, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Acetyl Glutamine, Lecithin, Phospholipids, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Polyglutamic Acid, Phytosterols, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Ceramide NP, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Oligopeptide-3, Oligopeptide-2, Oligopeptide-1, Hexapeptide-11, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Folic Acid, Amylopectin, Tocopherol, Phytosphingosine, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Lactic Acid, Myrica Cerifera Fruit Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Prunus Lannesiana Flower Extract, Akebia Quinata Stem Extract, Saccharomyces Lysate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Ceramide EOP, Tripeptide-1, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dextran, Phenoxyethanol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!