Bioderma Cicabio SPF 50+ Versus Paula's Choice Extra Care Non-Greasy Sunscreen SPF 50

Bioderma Cicabio SPF 50+ Versus Paula's Choice Extra Care Non-Greasy Sunscreen SPF 50

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Homosalate

Diisopropyl Sebacate

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Dibutyl Adipate

Glycerin

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Butylene Glycol

Lauroyl Lysine

Propanediol

Silica

Sodium Citrate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Pentylene Glycol

Copper Sulfate

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Citric Acid

Ectoin

Mannitol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Xylitol

Zinc Sulfate

Vitis Vinifera Vine Extract

Rhamnose

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Asiaticoside

Madecassic Acid

Asiatic Acid

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Fructooligosaccharides

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract

Water, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Homosalate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Dibutyl Adipate, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Butylene Glycol, Lauroyl Lysine, Propanediol, Silica, Sodium Citrate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Pentylene Glycol, Copper Sulfate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Ectoin, Mannitol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xylitol, Zinc Sulfate, Vitis Vinifera Vine Extract, Rhamnose, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Fructooligosaccharides, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract

Homosalate 10%

Benzophenone-3 6%

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%

Octocrylene 2%

PEG-8

Polyethylene

Dimethicone

Picrasma Excelsa Wood Extract

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Retinyl Palmitate

Tocopherol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Titanium Dioxide

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Bentonite

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Polyacrylate

Kaolin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Hydroxide

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Homosalate 10%, Benzophenone-3 6%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Octocrylene 2%, Water, Butylene Glycol, PEG-8, Polyethylene, Silica, Dimethicone, Picrasma Excelsa Wood Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Titanium Dioxide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Bentonite, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Kaolin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexyl Salicylate (also called Octisalate or Octyl Salicylate) is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that's been used in sunscreen since the 1950's.

It absorbs UVB light in the 280-320 nm range with a peak absorbance around 306 nm.

You'll often see it paired with other UV filters to boost overall SPF because octisalate is a fairly week filter on its own.

The reason you'll see it so often is because it can help solubilize and stabilize the trickier filters like oxybenzone and avobenzone.

Unlike these filters, octisalate has pretty good photostability and doesn't create skin-damaging free radicals when exposed to sunlight.

The fatty-alcohol part of the molecule also gives it a light, emollient feel so it doubles as a nice texture enhancer.

Usage levels vary around the world:

Safety-wise, this ingredient has a pretty reassuring track record. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) found very low skin penetration in human skin tests and negative results for irritation, phototoxicity, and photoallergy.

The real-world allergy risk is pretty low too; a 2012 European study of 1,031 people recorded only 2 reactions to it (a rate of 0.19%).

You might have seen scary headlines about sunscreen getting into your blood.

In 2019, the FDA found that several chemical filters can absorb through the skin and show up in the bloodstream at small but measurable levels.

Here's the important part: these tiny levels are just a cutoff the FDA uses to decide which ingredients need more testing and doesn't mean anything harmful was found.

The researchers were clear that the results are no reason to stop wearing sunscreen.

Homosalate is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter that has been a sunscreen staple for decades. Its job is to absorb UVB rays (~295-315 nm) and protect your skin against sunburn,

This is one of the more photostable organic UV filters; it holds up pretty well under UV and a 2022 quantum-chemistry study found it stays stable in sunlight.

It's actually so reliable that formulators often pair it with shakier ingredients like oxybenzone and avobenzone. Formulators also use it to help dissolve the other UV filters into the oil phase.

One thing to keep in mind: "stable" isn't the same as "strong". On its own, homosalate is actually a pretty weak UV filter so it's better off as a helpful team player that helps boost overall SPF protection.

The safety picture is a bit nuanced but not scary.

This ingredient has a long track record of being gentle and regulators agree it isn't an irritant; EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety found that homosalate is not considered a skin irritant and doesn't raise eye-irritation flags either.

There's talk about homosalate because your skin absorbs a little bit of it into your bloodstream. A 2020 FDA-backed study found homosalate showed up in people's blood levels at the level where the FDA decides to double check.

The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) also found small amounts in blood and breast milk. They estimated that about 5% of what you apply gets absorbed through the skin.

Due to the debate about whether it might mess with hormones, the SCCS recommended a maximum limit of 0.5% in most products of 7.3% in face creams/pump sprays.

One important thing to keep in mind: in the US, Homosalate is currently labeled "non-GRASE" by the FDA. This sounds alarming but really just means the FDA wants more data to confirm it's safe. It's not confidently saying this ingredient is harmful.

As of now, homosalate is still completely legal and widely used while that research gets done.

The current maximum limits are:

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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