Skin science article
Bioderma Hydrabio Cream Versus Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Replenishing Moisturizer
Bioderma Hydrabio Cream Versus Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Replenishing Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Oenoth
Bioderma Hydrabio Cream Versus Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Replenishing Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Oenothera Biennis Oil and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Isododecane
Cyclopentasiloxane
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Dimethicone
Propanediol
Xylitol
Cetyl Palmitate
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Niacinamide
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Arachidyl Alcohol
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Glyceryl Dibehenate
Behenyl Alcohol
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Tribehenin
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Pentylene Glycol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Arachidyl Glucoside
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Glyceryl Behenate
Disodium EDTA
Squalane
Salicylic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Mannitol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hexyldecanol
Tocopherol
Polysorbate 60
Rhamnose
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Pyrus Malus Seed Extract
Brassica Campestris Sterols
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Isododecane, Cyclopentasiloxane, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Xylitol, Cetyl Palmitate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Niacinamide, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Glyceryl Dibehenate, Behenyl Alcohol, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Tribehenin, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Arachidyl Glucoside, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Behenate, Disodium EDTA, Squalane, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Mannitol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hexyldecanol, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 60, Rhamnose, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Pyrus Malus Seed Extract, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Parfum
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Butylene Glycol
Glycereth-26
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Cetyl Alcohol
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Stearic Acid
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Cyclohexasiloxane
Panthenol
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Tocopheryl Linoleate
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Sodium PCA
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Saccharide Isomerate
Hydroxypropyl Guar
Allantoin
Rosa Moschata Seed Oil
Polysorbate 20
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Carbomer
Sodium Citrate
Trisodium EDTA
Batyl Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Benzoic Acid
Sorbic Acid
Water, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Linoleate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium PCA, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Saccharide Isomerate, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Allantoin, Rosa Moschata Seed Oil, Polysorbate 20, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carbomer, Sodium Citrate, Trisodium EDTA, Batyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.
Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.
The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics
There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.
Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.
The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!