Biologique Recherche Crème Dermopurifiante Purifying Face Cream Versus Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer with Retinol

Biologique Recherche Crème Dermopurifiante Purifying Face Cream Versus Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer with Retinol

This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to balance excess oil and clear breakouts.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propylene Glycol

Glycerin

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Butylene Glycol

Sucrose Polystearate

C10-18 Triglycerides

Cetyl Alcohol

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Polyamide-5

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Betula Alba Bark Extract

Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract

Equisetum Arvense Extract

Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract

Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Rosa Canina Fruit Extract

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Extract

Myrtus Communis Extract

Allium Cepa Bulb Extract

Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract

Oleanolic Acid

Glycine Soja Oil

Yeast Extract

Citric Acid

Tocopherol

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

T-Butyl Alcohol

Caprylyl Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Sorbic Acid

Water, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Butylene Glycol, Sucrose Polystearate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Cetyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Polyamide-5, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Spiraea Ulmaria Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Extract, Myrtus Communis Extract, Allium Cepa Bulb Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Oleanolic Acid, Glycine Soja Oil, Yeast Extract, Citric Acid, Tocopherol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, T-Butyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sorbic Acid

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Cocoglycerides

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Squalane

Sodium Polyacrylate

Lecithin

Adenosine

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Ceramide NP

Retinol

Punica Granatum Extract

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Tocopheryl Acetate

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Xanthan Gum

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Cocoglycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Squalane, Sodium Polyacrylate, Lecithin, Adenosine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Retinol, Punica Granatum Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Dicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.

As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glycine Soja Oil is a plant-derived oil from soybean seeds. Like other oils, it is rich in essential fatty acids (mostly linoleic and oleic) that support skin hydration and barrier function.

The fatty acids are able to integrate into the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum to help soften skin and reduce water loss.

On top of that, soybean oil is rich in vitamins like vitamin E, a potent antioxidant.

Research on soybean's active components also point to anti-inflammatory, collagen-stimulating, antioxidant activity, and protection against UV-induced oxidative damage.

Most of this research applies to the broader soybean plant and not just the oil fraction alone.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic acid content.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.

As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.

The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.

True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).

It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.

Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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