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Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 PIGM 400 Versus Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 PIGM 400 Versus Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum This brightening toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Lactic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin. This brightening ser

By Peptide Skincare & Beauty Editorial TeamPublished

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 PIGM 400 Versus Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum

This brightening toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Lactic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This brightening serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Kojic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and clear breakouts.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Niacinamide

Sodium Gluconate

Triethanolamine

Lactic Acid

Sodium Lactate

Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract

Magnesium Chloride

Mandelic Acid

Palmaria Palmata Extract

Microcitrus Australasica Fruit Extract

Prunus Persica Leaf Extract

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Phytic Acid

Citric Acid

Gluconolactone

Salicylic Acid

Ascorbic Acid

Maltodextrin

Sodium Salicylate

Vinegar

Propylene Glycol

Magnesium Sulfate

Alcohol Denat.

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Bisulfite

Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Sodium Gluconate, Triethanolamine, Lactic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Magnesium Chloride, Mandelic Acid, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Microcitrus Australasica Fruit Extract, Prunus Persica Leaf Extract, Spiraea Ulmaria Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Phytic Acid, Citric Acid, Gluconolactone, Salicylic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Maltodextrin, Sodium Salicylate, Vinegar, Propylene Glycol, Magnesium Sulfate, Alcohol Denat., Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Bisulfite

Azelaic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Propanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Kojic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Caprylyl Glycol

Hexylresorcinol

Ethyl Linoleate

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Dodecane

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Xanthan Gum

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Squalane

Bisabolol

Glyceryl Laurate

Glyceryl Undecylenate

Allantoin

Ribose

Sodium Acetate

Bakuchiol

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Cellulose

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Azelaic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Kojic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylresorcinol, Ethyl Linoleate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Dodecane, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Squalane, Bisabolol, Glyceryl Laurate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Allantoin, Ribose, Sodium Acetate, Bakuchiol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Cellulose, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  4. 04Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  5. 05In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  6. 06While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  7. 07Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  8. 08This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
  9. 09This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures…
  10. 10Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
  11. 11It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
  12. 12The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
  13. 13The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
  14. 14Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
  15. 15One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
  16. 16This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
  17. 17On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
  18. 18Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil is oil from the seeds of Black Currant. A more common name for this ingredient is Black Currant Seed Oil.
  19. 19Black Currant Seed Oil contains a high amount of omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids. It also contains linoleic acid.
  20. 20Black currant berries contain anthocyanins, an antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
Source · skinsort.com ⟶
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