Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum Versus iNNBEAUTY PROJECT Elastic Skin Firming & Plumping Serum

Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum Versus iNNBEAUTY PROJECT Elastic Skin Firming & Plumping Serum This hydrating serum is formulated around Squalane and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging s

Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum Versus iNNBEAUTY PROJECT Elastic Skin Firming & Plumping Serum

This hydrating serum is formulated around Squalane and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Squalane and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Squalane

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acmella Oleracea Extract

Ectoin

Tetrapeptide-30

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52

Copper PCA

Panthenol

Sodium Polyglutamate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Passiflora Incarnata Flower Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Acacia Senegal Gum

Xanthan Gum

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Citric Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Ectoin, Tetrapeptide-30, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52, Copper PCA, Panthenol, Sodium Polyglutamate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Passiflora Incarnata Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol

Butylene Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Diheptyl Succinate

Pentylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Dioscorea Villosa Root Extract

Oligopeptide-1

Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76

Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-47

Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate

Ceramide NP

Niacinamide

Centella Asiatica Extract

Beta-Glucan

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Sodium PCA

Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract

Allantoin

Betaine

Bisabolol

Zinc PCA

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

C14-22 Alcohols

Sodium Polyacrylate

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Carbomer

Sorbitan Olivate

Cellulose Gum

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Cetearyl Olivate

Mannitol

Phosphatidylcholine

Cetyl Alcohol

Decyl Glucoside

Dipotassium Phosphate

Sodium Chloride

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Phytate

Tocopherol

Potassium Phosphate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Diheptyl Succinate, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Dioscorea Villosa Root Extract, Copper Tripeptide-1, Oligopeptide-1, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-47, Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate, Ceramide NP, Niacinamide, Centella Asiatica Extract, Beta-Glucan, Sodium Hyaluronate, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Sodium PCA, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Panthenol, Allantoin, Betaine, Bisabolol, Zinc PCA, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, C14-22 Alcohols, Sodium Polyacrylate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Carbomer, Sorbitan Olivate, Cellulose Gum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetearyl Olivate, Mannitol, Phosphatidylcholine, Cetyl Alcohol, Decyl Glucoside, Dipotassium Phosphate, Propanediol, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Phosphate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.

It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.

While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.

Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.

Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.

Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.

For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.

After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.

While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Propanediol
  4. 04Squalane
  5. 05Sodium Hyaluronate
  6. 06Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
  7. 07Copper Tripeptide-1
  8. 08Acmella Oleracea Extract
  9. 09Ectoin
  10. 10Tetrapeptide-30
  11. 11Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52
  12. 12Copper PCA
  13. 13Panthenol
  14. 14Sodium Polyglutamate
  15. 15Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
  16. 16Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
  17. 17Passiflora Incarnata Flower Extract
  18. 18Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
  19. 19Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
  20. 20Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side