Skin science article
Biossance Squalane + Omega Repair Cream Versus Paula's Choice Probiotic Nutrient Moisturizer
Biossance Squalane + Omega Repair Cream Versus Paula's Choice Probiotic Nutrient Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formu
Biossance Squalane + Omega Repair Cream Versus Paula's Choice Probiotic Nutrient Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment and Bifida Ferment Lysate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Squalane
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Isoamyl Laurate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Sorbitan Olivate
Cetearyl Olivate
Ceramide NP
Jojoba Esters
Sodium Hyaluronate
Euterpe Oleracea Sterols
Linoleic Acid
Oleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Ethyl Linoleate
Tocopherol
Isoamyl Cocoate
Cetyl Palmitate
Sorbitan Palmitate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Carbomer
Sodium Hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Gluconate
Water, Squalane, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isoamyl Laurate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Olivate, Ceramide NP, Jojoba Esters, Sodium Hyaluronate, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Ethyl Linoleate, Tocopherol, Isoamyl Cocoate, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Gluconate
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Polyacrylate Starch
Cetyl Alcohol
Lauroyl Lysine
Lactobacillus/Rye Flour Ferment
Lactobacillus Ferment
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Glucomannan
Saccharomyces Lysate
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10
Ceramide Ng
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Palmitoyl Proline
Glycine
Serine
Threonine
Alanine
Valine
Arginine
Proline
Lysine Hcl
Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
Niacinamide
Adenosine
Lecithin
Phytic Acid
Yeast Extract
Faex
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
PCA
Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate
Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate
Isopropyl Palmitate
Glutamic Acid
Betaine
Glyceryl Stearate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Ceteth-20
Steareth-20
Polysorbate 20
PEG-75 Stearate
Caprylyl Glycol
Propylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Water, Isoamyl Laurate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Cetyl Alcohol, Lauroyl Lysine, Lactobacillus/Rye Flour Ferment, Lactobacillus Ferment, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glucomannan, Saccharomyces Lysate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10, Ceramide Ng, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Palmitoyl Proline, Glycine, Serine, Threonine, Alanine, Valine, Arginine, Proline, Lysine Hcl, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Niacinamide, Adenosine, Lecithin, Phytic Acid, Yeast Extract, Faex, Tocopherol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, PCA, Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate, Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Glutamic Acid, Betaine, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Polysorbate 20, PEG-75 Stearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Propylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Isoamyl Laurate is a plant-derived and biodegradable lightweight emollient that is an Ecocert/COSMOS approved alternative to silicones.
It functions as an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin without leaving a greasy/sticky feel.
You'll find it in a range of products from makeup to sunscreen, and typically at low percentages (~2-5%).
This ingredient is deemed safe at current cosmetic use and non-sensitizing in human studies (it's even approved as a food additive flavoring substance).
Because this ingredient is an easter of lauric acid, it falls in the C11-24 range that Malassezia can feed on, making this ingredient not fungal acne safe.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!