Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Lab Retinol Serum .25% Pure Concentrate

Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Lab Retinol Serum .25% Pure Concentrate

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Squalane

Niacinamide

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Bakuchiol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Oil

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Yeast Extract

Soy Amino Acids

Lecithin

Hexylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Caprylyl Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Citric Acid

Linalool

Geraniol

Limonene

Water, Squalane, Niacinamide, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Bakuchiol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Oil, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Yeast Extract, Soy Amino Acids, Lecithin, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citric Acid, Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene

Polysorbate 80

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Polysorbate 20

Butylene Glycol

Persea Gratissima Oil

Glycerin

Dimethicone

Retinol

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Colloidal Oatmeal

Tocopherol

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Ceramide NP

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Linoleic Acid

Allantoin

Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides

Palmitic Acid

Oleic Acid

Glycine Soja Oil

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Triolein

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Xanthan Gum

Stearic Acid

Maltodextrin

BHT

BHA

Sodium Hydroxide

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Polysorbate 80, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Persea Gratissima Oil, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Retinol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Colloidal Oatmeal, Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Linoleic Acid, Allantoin, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Glycine Soja Oil, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Triolein, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Stearic Acid, Maltodextrin, BHT, BHA, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Sorbate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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