Skin science article
Bliss Bright Idea Serum Versus The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer
Bliss Bright Idea Serum Versus The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefi
Bliss Bright Idea Serum Versus The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Propanediol
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopherol
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Pseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Glucose
Bisabolol
Squalane
Hydrogenated Farnesene
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
C14-22 Alcohols
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Sodium Citrate
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Xanthan Gum
Citric Acid
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Ethoxydiglycol
Glyceryl Stearate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Caprylyl Glycol
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Acacia Senegal Gum
Lecithin
Sclerotium Gum
Pullulan
Hexylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Parfum
Limonene
Water, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Propanediol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Pseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Glucose, Bisabolol, Squalane, Hydrogenated Farnesene, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, C14-22 Alcohols, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sodium Citrate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethoxydiglycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Lecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Limonene
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Betaine
Butylene Glycol
Benzyl Alcohol
Carbomer
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Gluconate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Dehydroacetic Acid
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Phenethyl Alcohol
Acetyl Hexapeptide-37
Maltodextrin
Pentapeptide-48
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Betaine, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phenethyl Alcohol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-37, Maltodextrin, Pentapeptide-48
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!