Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Bliss Rest Assured Eye Cream Versus Farmacy Cheer Up Brightening Vitamin C Eye Cream with Acerola Cherry

Bliss Rest Assured Eye Cream Versus Farmacy Cheer Up Brightening Vitamin C Eye Cream with Acerola Cherry This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

Bliss Rest Assured Eye Cream Versus Farmacy Cheer Up Brightening Vitamin C Eye Cream with Acerola Cherry

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Caffeine to fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Cocoglycerides

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate

Pentylene Glycol

Squalane

Tribehenin

Niacinamide

Tocopherol

Caffeine

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

Medicago Sativa Seed Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Sodium Hyaluronate

Acacia Senegal Gum

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Xanthan Gum

Pectin

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Cellulose

Acetic Acid

Sodium Polyacrylate

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Potassium Sorbate

Chlorphenesin

Citric Acid

Water, Glycerin, Cocoglycerides, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Pentylene Glycol, Squalane, Tribehenin, Niacinamide, Tocopherol, Caffeine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Medicago Sativa Seed Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Xanthan Gum, Pectin, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Cellulose, Acetic Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Chlorphenesin, Citric Acid

Diisostearyl Malate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil

Phytosterols

3-Glyceryl Ascorbate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract

Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract

Linoleic Acid

Phospholipids

Bisabolol

Physalis Angulata Extract

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1

Hexamidine Diisethionate

Sodium Phytate

Melia Azadirachta Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Potassium Hydroxide

Butylene Glycol

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Diisostearyl Malate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Pentylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Phytosterols, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate, Glycerin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract, Caffeine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Bisabolol, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Physalis Angulata Extract, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Tocopherol, Hexamidine Diisethionate, Sodium Phytate, Melia Azadirachta Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Helianthus Annuus Extract comes from the common sunflower.

Sunflowers are rich in vitamin E. Studies show sunflowers contain antimicrobial and antioxidant properties.

The fatty acids found in sunflowers include (from highest amount to least): linoleic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, oleic acid, and linolenic acid.

These fatty acids hydrate your skin. Emollients create a film on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.

This ingredient is created by putting sodium hyaluronate through hydrolysis.

You might know this as 'mini' or 'ultra low-molecular weight' hyaluronic acid. The small molecule size means it is able to travel deeper in the skin.

According to studies, low molecular-weight hyaluronic acid can:

One study from 2011 found ultra-low weight HA to show pro-inflammatory properties. Another study from 2022 found it to downregulate UV-B induced inflammation.

Hydrolysis is a process of changing a molecule using water or enzymes.

This ingredient is water-soluble.

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract comes from the outer layer of a rice kernel. It is a byproduct of milling rice, or the operation to produce a whole grain rice product.

This ingredient has moisturizing properties due to its components of polysaccharides and omega-3 fatty acids. It also contains calcium, selenium, phosphorus, iron, and zinc.

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract contains numerous antioxidants such as ferulic acid. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

This is a botanical extract from the rosemary plant (the same one you cook with). In skincare, it mostly works as a skin conditioning agent.

Its activity comes from a handful of polyphenols, carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. Almost 90% of the antioxidant activity of this ingredient can be attributed to canosol and carnosic acid.

These compounds protect your skin two ways:

1) They fight off free radicals, or the unstable molecules from things like sun and pollution that age and damage skin. 2) They help calm inflammation by switching off the chemical signals that tell skin to get red and irritated.

Lab studies also suggest that rosmarinic acid may help protect collagen and slow sugar-related damage to it.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

Rosemary can occasionally cause allergic contact dermatitis (due to carnosol), so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or fragrance-sensitive skin.

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a type of Hyaluronic Acid.

Hyaluronic Acids help moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin.

Read about common types of Hyaluronic Acid here:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a crosslinked version of sodium hyaluronate. This just means it's linked into a 3D mesh network that lets it be more stable and sit on skin as a cohesive, gel-like film rather than sinking into skin.

A 2016 human skin study found crosslinked HA increased epidermal water content by 7.6% over the control group and reduced transepidermal water loss by 27.8%.

A follow-up clinical trial found that a topical crosslinked HA serum applied after fillers, microneedling, or chemical peels was well-tolerated and enhanced skin quality at 14 / 28 days.

More recent research suggests that concentrations as low as 0.03% can act as a penetration enhancer for other skincare actives.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
  4. 04As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
  5. 05Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
  6. 06You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
  7. 07Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
  8. 08Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
  9. 09Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  10. 10Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  11. 11In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  12. 12While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  13. 13Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  14. 14This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
  15. 15This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures…
  16. 16Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  17. 17Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
  18. 18It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
  19. 19Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
  20. 20A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

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03

Comparison edit

Read side by side