Skin science article
Blume Meltdown Gel Cream for Acne-Prone Skin Versus The INKEY List Salicylic Acid Cleanser
Blume Meltdown Gel Cream for Acne-Prone Skin Versus The INKEY List Salicylic Acid Cleanser This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This salicylic acid gel cleanser is formul
Blume Meltdown Gel Cream for Acne-Prone Skin Versus The INKEY List Salicylic Acid Cleanser
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This salicylic acid gel cleanser is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Squalane
Diisostearyl Malate
Diheptyl Succinate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Glycerin
Niacinamide
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Behenyl Alcohol
Maltol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Terminalia Chebula Fruit Extract
Sodium Lactate
Centella Asiatica Extract
Arginine
PCA
Ceramide NP
Ceramide As
Ceramide AP
Ceramide Ns
Cholesterol
Ceramide EOP
Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Gossypium Hirsutum Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Sodium PCA
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract
Polyquaternium-80
Sorbitan Isostearate
Saccharide Isomerate
Maltodextrin
Citric Acid
Aspartic Acid
Sodium Citrate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Glycine
Alanine
Dipropylene Glycol
Serine
Valine
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Glyceryl Stearate
Proline
Threonine
Isoleucine
Sucrose Distearate
Histidine
Phenylalanine
Water, Propanediol, Squalane, Diisostearyl Malate, Diheptyl Succinate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Behenyl Alcohol, Maltol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Terminalia Chebula Fruit Extract, Sodium Lactate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Arginine, PCA, Ceramide NP, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Ceramide Ns, Cholesterol, Ceramide EOP, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Gossypium Hirsutum Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Sodium PCA, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Polyquaternium-80, Sorbitan Isostearate, Saccharide Isomerate, Maltodextrin, Citric Acid, Aspartic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glycine, Alanine, Dipropylene Glycol, Serine, Valine, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Proline, Threonine, Isoleucine, Sucrose Distearate, Histidine, Phenylalanine
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate
Salicylic Acid
PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate
PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Betaine
Zinc PCA
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Chloride
Allantoin
Sodium Hydroxide
Coco-Glucoside
Glyceryl Oleate
Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Dehydroacetic Acid
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Tocopherol
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Salicylic Acid, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Betaine, Zinc PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Chloride, Allantoin, Sodium Hydroxide, Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Benzyl Alcohol, Coconut Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!