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Skin science article

Boots Azelaic Acid Gel Cream Versus The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Cleanser

Boots Azelaic Acid Gel Cream Versus The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Cleanser This calming moisturizer is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Bisabolol to calm redness and clear breakouts. This cream cleanser uses mild cleansing ingredients, but contains alcohol

Boots Azelaic Acid Gel Cream Versus The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Cleanser

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Bisabolol to calm redness and clear breakouts.

This cream cleanser uses mild cleansing ingredients, but contains alcohol that may feel drying for some.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Azelaic Acid

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Behenyl Alcohol

Dimethicone

Glyceryl Stearate

Sorbitan Stearate

Polysorbate 60

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Phenoxyethanol

Potassium Hydroxide

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Bisabolol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Glycerin

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Disodium EDTA

Beta-Glucan

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Water, Butylene Glycol, Azelaic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitan Stearate, Polysorbate 60, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Hydroxide, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Bisabolol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycerin, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Disodium EDTA, Beta-Glucan, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone

Coco-Glucoside

Betaine

Cetearyl Alcohol

Stearic Acid

Benzyl Alcohol

Xanthan Gum

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Inulin

Sodium Hydroxide

Dehydroacetic Acid

Polyquaternium-10

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Lecithin

Water, Glycerin, Coco-Glucoside, Betaine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Inulin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Dehydroacetic Acid, Polyquaternium-10, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Benzoyl Peroxide 2.5%
  2. 02Water
  3. 03Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
  4. 04Glyceryl Stearate
  5. 05PEG-100 Stearate
  6. 06Sorbitol
  7. 07Dimethyl Isosorbide
  8. 08Disodium PEG-12 Dimethicone Sulfosuccinate
  9. 09Tridecyl Stearate
  10. 10Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
  11. 11Paraffin
  12. 12Cetyl Esters
  13. 13Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
  14. 14Tridecyl Trimellitate
  15. 15Trisodium Sulfosuccinate
  16. 16PEG-12 Dimethicone
  17. 17Sodium Sulfate
  18. 18Sodium Hyaluronate
  19. 19Propylene Glycol
  20. 20Sodium PCA
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Retinol

The Inkey List Retinol The Inkey List Retinol ingredients explained: Water (Aqua/Eau), Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Tocopherol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid

The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid ingredients explained: Aqua (Water), Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone, Glycerin, Polymethylsilsesquioxa…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side