Boots Ingredients Multi-Biotic Moisturiser Versus Paula's Choice Rescue & Repair Weightless Moisturizer

Boots Ingredients Multi-Biotic Moisturiser Versus Paula's Choice Rescue & Repair Weightless Moisturizer

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Allantoin to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Paraffinum Liquidum

Cetearyl Alcohol

Palmitic Acid

Inulin

Petrolatum

Stearic Acid

Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice

Phenoxyethanol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Glyceryl Stearate

Maltodextrin

PEG-100 Stearate

Carbomer

Allantoin

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Isohexadecane

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Dimethicone

Alpha-Arbutin

Sodium Hydroxide

Xanthan Gum

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Polysorbate 80

Lactobacillus

Sorbitan Oleate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Panthenol

Butylene Glycol

Denatonium Benzoate

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Paraffinum Liquidum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Inulin, Petrolatum, Stearic Acid, Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice, Phenoxyethanol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Maltodextrin, PEG-100 Stearate, Carbomer, Allantoin, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dimethicone, Alpha-Arbutin, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Polysorbate 80, Lactobacillus, Sorbitan Oleate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Denatonium Benzoate, Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Triheptanoin

C13-16 Isoalkane

Propanediol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Squalane

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Phytate

Hexylene Glycol

Glycogen

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Albatrellus Confluens Extract

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract

Galactoarabinan

Citric Acid

Schizophyllan

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearic Acid, Triheptanoin, C13-16 Isoalkane, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Inulin, Glyceryl Stearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Squalane, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Sodium Phytate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Glycogen, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Albatrellus Confluens Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Galactoarabinan, Citric Acid, Maltodextrin, Schizophyllan, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide is a prebiotic. It prevents harmful bacteria from growing on skin by keeping the skin's microbiome in balance.

Another benefit of this ingredient is its antioxidant properties. Antioxidants protect our skin from oxidative damage.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Inulin is a polysaccharide (carbohydrate) with prebiotic and antioxidant properties.

The majority of inulin is extracted from chicory, but can also be obtained from other plants such as garlic, onion, asparagus, and sugarcane.

Studies show inulin may help with controlling your skin's natural microbiota when applied topically.

The antioxidant potential of inulin varies depending on the source.

Maltodextrin is a plant-derived carbohydrate made by breaking down starch (usually from corn, potato, or rice). In cosmetic formulas, it's a multitasking absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and skin conditioner.

This ingredient is mostly used to stabilize emulsions and improve the powdery, non-greasy feel of products (like dry shampoos).

Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty solid; it's even recognized as a food additive. Both animal and clinical studies found no adverse effects at the levels used in cosmetics.

Industry data shows this ingredient is used up to 45.7% in spray products and up to 33% in powder products.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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