Skin science article
boscia Cica Soothing Universal Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream
boscia Cica Soothing Universal Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream This calming moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This barrier-repair moisturizer is f
boscia Cica Soothing Universal Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide Ng and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
1,2-Hexanediol
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Betaine
Carbomer
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Panthenol
Tromethamine
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Centella Asiatica Extract
Carnosine
Bisabolol
Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice
Maltodextrin
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Extract
Ceramide NP
Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil
Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Lactobacillus
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Betaine, Carbomer, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Panthenol, Tromethamine, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Centella Asiatica Extract, Carnosine, Bisabolol, Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice, Maltodextrin, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Extract, Ceramide NP, Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Lactobacillus, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Propanediol
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Oxygen
Ceramide Ng
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopherol
Colloidal Oatmeal
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Cholesterol
Polyglucuronic Acid
Cetyl Alcohol
Sodium Polyacrylate Starch
Stearic Acid
Dipropylene Glycol
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Polypropylene
Polysorbate 80
Steareth-30
Lecithin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Phenoxyethanol
Perfluorohexane
Chlorphenesin
Perfluoromethylcyclopentane
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Oxygen, Ceramide Ng, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Colloidal Oatmeal, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Cholesterol, Polyglucuronic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Stearic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polypropylene, Polysorbate 80, Steareth-30, Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Phenoxyethanol, Perfluorohexane, Chlorphenesin, Perfluoromethylcyclopentane, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!