Skin science article
BrioGeo Destined For Density Caffeine + Biotin Density Conditioner Versus Biolage Color Last Shampoo for Color-Treated Hair
BrioGeo Destined For Density Caffeine + Biotin Density Conditioner Versus Biolage Color Last Shampoo for Color-Treated Hair What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Cetyl Alcohol Stearyl Alcohol Brassica Alcohol Propanedio
BrioGeo Destined For Density Caffeine + Biotin Density Conditioner Versus Biolage Color Last Shampoo for Color-Treated Hair
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cetyl Alcohol
Stearyl Alcohol
Brassica Alcohol
Propanediol
Isopropyl Myristate
Copper Tripeptide-34
Coffea Arabica Seed Oil
Tocopheryl Acetate
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Caffeine
Biotin
Cetyl Esters
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate
Cetrimonium Chloride
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Glycerin
Lauryl Pyrrolidone
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Ubiquinone
Lindera Strychnifolia Root Extract
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Glycine
Larix Europaea Wood Extract
Sodium Metabisulfite
Zinc Chloride
Citric Acid
Parfum
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Benzyl Alcohol
Water, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Brassica Alcohol, Propanediol, Isopropyl Myristate, Copper Tripeptide-34, Coffea Arabica Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Caffeine, Biotin, Cetyl Esters, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Glycerin, Lauryl Pyrrolidone, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Ubiquinone, Lindera Strychnifolia Root Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glycine, Larix Europaea Wood Extract, Sodium Metabisulfite, Zinc Chloride, Citric Acid, Parfum, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Coco-Betaine
Sodium Chloride
Glycol Distearate
Dimethicone
Sodium Benzoate
Hexylene Glycol
Cocamide Mipa
Salicylic Acid
Carbomer
Limonene
Hexyl Cinnamal
Coumarin
Linalool
Butylphenyl Methylpropional
Benzophenone-4
Hydroxycitronellal
Amyl Cinnamal
Methyl Cocoate
Orchis Mascula Extract
Sodium Cocoate
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Coco-Betaine, Sodium Chloride, Glycol Distearate, Dimethicone, Parfum, Sodium Benzoate, Hexylene Glycol, Cocamide Mipa, Salicylic Acid, Carbomer, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Coumarin, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzophenone-4, Hydroxycitronellal, Amyl Cinnamal, Methyl Cocoate, Orchis Mascula Extract, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid
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Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.
This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.
As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.
The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.
This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.
It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.
Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
This ingredient is derived from guar gum. It is a skin conditioning agent that creates a thin, breathable film to reduce water loss during cleansing.
This leaves the skin feeling soft rather than stripped and also contributes to a creamier lather.
Due to the large molecule size, this ingredient is unlikely to penetrate skin.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!