Skin science article
BrioGeo Destined For Density Peptide Shampoo for Thicker, Fuller Hair Versus Oribe Hair Alchemy Fortifying Treatment Serum
BrioGeo Destined For Density Peptide Shampoo for Thicker, Fuller Hair Versus Oribe Hair Alchemy Fortifying Treatment Serum What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate Lauramidopropyl Betaine Glycerin
BrioGeo Destined For Density Peptide Shampoo for Thicker, Fuller Hair Versus Oribe Hair Alchemy Fortifying Treatment Serum
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Lauramidopropyl Betaine
Glycerin
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Coffea Arabica Seed Oil
Copper Tripeptide-34
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Biotin
Coconut Acid
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
Sodium Isethionate
Citric Acid
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Caffeine
Propanediol
Lindera Strychnifolia Root Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ubiquinone
Glycine
Larix Europaea Wood Extract
Sodium Metabisulfite
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Zinc Chloride
Sodium Hydroxide
Parfum
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Benzyl Alcohol
Water, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Lauramidopropyl Betaine, Glycerin, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Coffea Arabica Seed Oil, Copper Tripeptide-34, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Biotin, Coconut Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Isethionate, Citric Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Caffeine, Propanediol, Lindera Strychnifolia Root Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ubiquinone, Glycine, Larix Europaea Wood Extract, Sodium Metabisulfite, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Zinc Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol
Pentylene Glycol
Dimethicone
Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract
PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate
Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethiconol Meadowfoamate
Brassica Alcohol
Polyquaternium-37
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Behentrimonium Chloride
Caprylyl Methicone
Brassicyl Valinate Esylate
Panthenol
Chlorphenesin
Sodium Benzoate
Calcium Gluconate
Trehalose
Xylitol
Butylene Glycol
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Polyquaternium-73
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Isopropyl Alcohol
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Panthenyl Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Chloride
Quaternium-95
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Ethyl Linoleate
Ceramide NP
Ethyl Oleate
Sorbitan Oleate
Sodium PCA
Cinnamidopropyltrimonium Chloride
Arctium Lappa Root Extract
Hedera Helix Extract
Sodium Lactate
Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Seed Extract
Sodium Phosphate
Lactobacillus/Arundinaria Gigantea Leaf Ferment Filtrate
Arginine
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Aspartic Acid
PCA
Litchi Chinensis Fruit Extract
Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylic Acid
Galactoarabinan
Tocopherol
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein Pg-Propyl Silanetriol
Alanine
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Serine
Valine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Isoleucine
Proline
Threonine
Nigella Sativa Seed Extract
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Histidine
Phenylalanine
Caprylyl Glycol
Disodium EDTA
Potassium Hydroxide
Limonene
Hexyl Cinnamal
Citral
Linalool
Water, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethiconol Meadowfoamate, Brassica Alcohol, Parfum, Polyquaternium-37, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Behentrimonium Chloride, Caprylyl Methicone, Benzyl Alcohol, Brassicyl Valinate Esylate, Glycerin, Panthenol, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Benzoate, Calcium Gluconate, Trehalose, Xylitol, Butylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Citric Acid, Polyquaternium-73, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Isopropyl Alcohol, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Panthenyl Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Chloride, Quaternium-95, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Ethyl Linoleate, Ceramide NP, Ethyl Oleate, Sorbitan Oleate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium PCA, Cinnamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Hedera Helix Extract, Sodium Lactate, Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Seed Extract, Propanediol, Sodium Phosphate, Lactobacillus/Arundinaria Gigantea Leaf Ferment Filtrate, Arginine, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Litchi Chinensis Fruit Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylic Acid, Galactoarabinan, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein Pg-Propyl Silanetriol, Glycine, Alanine, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Serine, Valine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Nigella Sativa Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Hydroxide, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citral, Linalool
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.
This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.
As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.
The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.
This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.
It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.
Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. The trade name for this ingredient is Leucidal.
Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid.
This ingredient has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.
Leuconostoc is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!