Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

BrioGeo Destined for Density™ Peptide Hair Serum for Thicker, Fuller Hair Versus Color Wow Youth Juice Collagen Scalp Treatment

BrioGeo Destined for Density™ Peptide Hair Serum for Thicker, Fuller Hair Versus Color Wow Youth Juice Collagen Scalp Treatment What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Propanediol Glycerin Pentylene Glycol Betaine Coco-Ca

BrioGeo Destined for Density™ Peptide Hair Serum for Thicker, Fuller Hair Versus Color Wow Youth Juice Collagen Scalp Treatment

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Glycerin

Pentylene Glycol

Betaine

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Caffeine

Copper Tripeptide-34

Niacinamide

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Coffea Arabica Seed Oil

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Biotin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Carbomer

Lindera Strychnifolia Root Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Acacia Senegal Gum

Xanthan Gum

Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil

Lamium Album Extract

Plantago Psyllium Seed Extract

Panthenol

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Sodium Metabisulfite

Larix Europaea Wood Extract

Glycine

Tocopherol

Ubiquinone

Zinc Chloride

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Citric Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Hydroxide

Benzyl Alcohol

Caramel

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Betaine, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caffeine, Copper Tripeptide-34, Niacinamide, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Coffea Arabica Seed Oil, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Biotin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Carbomer, Lindera Strychnifolia Root Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil, Lamium Album Extract, Plantago Psyllium Seed Extract, Panthenol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Larix Europaea Wood Extract, Glycine, Tocopherol, Ubiquinone, Zinc Chloride, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Hydroxide, Benzyl Alcohol, Caramel

Butylene Glycol

Hexylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Acetamide Mea

Aminomethyl Propanol

Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Arginine

Lactic Acid

Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract

Disodium EDTA

Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract

Glycine Soja Germ Extract

Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract

Sea Water

Gluconolactone

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

PPG-26-Buteth-26

1,2-Hexanediol

Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Sh-Polypeptide-123

Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein

Apigenin

Calcium Gluconate

Oleanolic Acid

Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Water, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Acetamide Mea, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Niacinamide, Aminomethyl Propanol, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Panthenol, Caffeine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Arginine, Lactic Acid, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Disodium EDTA, Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract, Glycine Soja Germ Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Sea Water, Sodium Benzoate, Gluconolactone, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, PPG-26-Buteth-26, 1,2-Hexanediol, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sh-Polypeptide-123, Potassium Sorbate, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Apigenin, Calcium Gluconate, Oleanolic Acid, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

This ingredient is also known as Indian Gooseberry or Amla Berry. It is skin hydrating and antioxidant rich.

Indian gooseberry is rich in antioxidants such as polyphenols, tannins, and vitamin C compounds.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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Comparison edit

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