Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

BrioGeo Destined for Density™ Peptide Hair Serum for Thicker, Fuller Hair Versus Necessaire The Scalp Serum

BrioGeo Destined for Density™ Peptide Hair Serum for Thicker, Fuller Hair Versus Necessaire The Scalp Serum What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns No concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Propanediol Glycerin Pentylene Glycol Betaine Coco-Caprylate/

BrioGeo Destined for Density™ Peptide Hair Serum for Thicker, Fuller Hair Versus Necessaire The Scalp Serum

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Glycerin

Pentylene Glycol

Betaine

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Caffeine

Copper Tripeptide-34

Niacinamide

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Coffea Arabica Seed Oil

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Biotin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Carbomer

Lindera Strychnifolia Root Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Acacia Senegal Gum

Xanthan Gum

Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil

Lamium Album Extract

Plantago Psyllium Seed Extract

Panthenol

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Sodium Metabisulfite

Larix Europaea Wood Extract

Glycine

Tocopherol

Ubiquinone

Zinc Chloride

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Citric Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Hydroxide

Benzyl Alcohol

Caramel

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Betaine, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caffeine, Copper Tripeptide-34, Niacinamide, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Coffea Arabica Seed Oil, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Biotin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Carbomer, Lindera Strychnifolia Root Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil, Lamium Album Extract, Plantago Psyllium Seed Extract, Panthenol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Larix Europaea Wood Extract, Glycine, Tocopherol, Ubiquinone, Zinc Chloride, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Hydroxide, Benzyl Alcohol, Caramel

Butylene Glycol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract

Apium Graveolens Seed Extract

Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-86

Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-9

Nicotiana Benthamiana Octapeptide-30 Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate

Dextran

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Apium Graveolens Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-86, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-9, Nicotiana Benthamiana Octapeptide-30 Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Dextran, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Citric Acid, Glycerin

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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Comparison edit

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