Skin science article
Brmud Recovery Mud Mask Versus Beauty of Joseon Ground Rice And Honey Glow Mask
Brmud Recovery Mud Mask Versus Beauty of Joseon Ground Rice And Honey Glow Mask This wash off mask is made with Bentonite and Kaolin for a rinse-off oil-control boost. This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Honey for a rinse-off oil-control boost. What's i
Brmud Recovery Mud Mask Versus Beauty of Joseon Ground Rice And Honey Glow Mask
This wash off mask is made with Bentonite and Kaolin for a rinse-off oil-control boost.
This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Honey for a rinse-off oil-control boost.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Sea Silt 30%
Glycerin
Dipropylene Glycol
Bentonite 4%
Kaolin 4%
Betaine
1,2-Hexanediol
Centella Asiatica Extract
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract
Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract
Sargassum Fulvellum Extract
Hizikia Fusiforme Extract
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Xanthan Gum
Polyacrylate-13
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Disodium EDTA
Allantoin
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Fructooligosaccharides
Beta-Glucan
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Ceramide NP
Tocopherol
Butylene Glycol
Alcohol
Lecithin
Pistacia Lentiscus Gum
Hydroxyacetophenone
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Sea Silt 30%, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Bentonite 4%, Kaolin 4%, Betaine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Sargassum Fulvellum Extract, Hizikia Fusiforme Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Polyacrylate-13, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Fructooligosaccharides, Beta-Glucan, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, Alcohol, Lecithin, Pistacia Lentiscus Gum, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin
Kaolin
Honey
Propanediol
Oryza Sativa Hull Powder
Isononyl Isononanoate
Cetyl Alcohol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Oryza Sativa Bran
Oryza Sativa Lees Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Honey Extract
Bentonite
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Behenyl Alcohol
Cellulose
Zea Mays Starch
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Sodium Phytate
Menthyl Lactate
Water, Kaolin, Honey, Glycerin, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Hull Powder, Isononyl Isononanoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Bran, Oryza Sativa Lees Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Honey Extract, Bentonite, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Cellulose, Zea Mays Starch, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyacetophenone, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyacrylate-13, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Sodium Phytate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Menthyl Lactate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Bentonite is an aluminium phyllosilicate clay with great absorbent properties. The name 'bentonite' comes from the area where the largest source is found: Fort Benton, Wyoming.
As a clay, bentonite is often used to absorb excess oil and provide exfoliation. It has also been shown to have some antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Studies show bentonite was effective at calming dermatitis from poison ivy and in diaper dermatitis of infants. Bentonite has also been shown to act as a barrier against toxic compounds on your skin.
Sunscreens containing bentonite display higher water resistance and stay on the skin for much longer. The sunscreens containing bentonite also show higher potency and UV light absorbtion.
Bentonite is naturally created from volcanic ash and several natural weathering/hydrothermal processes.
A common usage of bentonite is removing excess protein from white wines. Bentonite contains a property of being able to absorb large amounts of protein from aqueous solutions.
Phyllosilicate clay has a structure formed by sheets.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Kaolin is a clay. It is used for oil control and to help minimize pores. Like other clays, kaolin has the ability to absorb excess sebum or oil. This can help clean out pores and mattify the skin.
Some types of kaolin may have exfoliating properties. When water is added to kaolin, it becomes a paste with small abrasive particles.
Most kaolin is a white color, but may be pink/orange/red depending on where it comes from.
The name 'kaolin' comes from a Chinese village named 'Gaoling'. Kaolin clay comes from rocks rich in kaolinite. Kaolinite, the mineral, has a silicate layered structure. Kaolinite is formed from chemical weathering of aluminum siilicate minerals.
Besides skincare, kaolin is commonly used to make glossy paper, in ceramics, toothpaste, and as medicine to soothe stomach issues.
Polyacrylate-13 is a type of acrylate polymer. Acrylate polymers are commonly used as adhesives in cosmetics.
Polyacrylate-13 creates a film to protect the skin. It is also used to thicken and stabilize a product. It works by making water a gel-like consistency. This gel consistency helps suspend particles.
Polyacrylate-13 is a copolymer of acrylic acid, acrylamide, sodium acrylate, sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate monomers
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a cleansing agent and emulsifier.
It rounds up dirt, oil, and grime, so they can be rinsed off easily as a cleanser.
On the emulsifier side, it keeps your formula smooth and well-mixed by playing peacekeeper for ingredients that don't naturally get along (like oil and water).
Because it has a C12 (lauric acid) fatty acid chain, this ingredient can potentially feed the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne. The Malassezia yeast prefers esters with C11-C24 fatty acids.
This ingredient is an ester of lauric acid and Polyglycerin-10.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.