Skin science article
Bubble Cosmic Silk Hydrating Milky Toner Versus Bubble Water Slide Hydration Boosting Serum Hyaluronic Acid + Peptides
Bubble Cosmic Silk Hydrating Milky Toner Versus Bubble Water Slide Hydration Boosting Serum Hyaluronic Acid + Peptides This hydrating toner is formulated around Xylitylglucoside and Linoleic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This hydrating
Bubble Cosmic Silk Hydrating Milky Toner Versus Bubble Water Slide Hydration Boosting Serum Hyaluronic Acid + Peptides
This hydrating toner is formulated around Xylitylglucoside and Linoleic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Coconut Alkanes
Glycerin
Polyglyceryl-10 Mono/Dioleate
Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate
Phosphatidylglycerol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Anhydroxylitol
Xylitol
Xylitylglucoside
Glucose
Euterpe Oleracea Sterols
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Oleic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Xanthan Gum
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Disodium Phosphate
Hydrated Silica
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
Sodium Phosphate
Sodium Benzoate
Allantoin
Arnica Montana Flower Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Potassium Sorbate
Hexylene Glycol
Acer Saccharum Sap
Citric Acid
Sodium Phytate
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Carbomer
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide NP
Cholesterol
Phytosphingosine
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Coconut Alkanes, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Mono/Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Phosphatidylglycerol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Xylitylglucoside, Glucose, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Oleic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Disodium Phosphate, Hydrated Silica, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Phosphate, Sodium Benzoate, Allantoin, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Hexylene Glycol, Acer Saccharum Sap, Citric Acid, Sodium Phytate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Propanediol
Squalane
Niacinamide
Saccharide Isomerate
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Diheptyl Succinate
Tremella Fuciformis Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil
Lauryl Glucoside
Sodium Lactate
Phytic Acid
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Cetyl Alcohol
Sucrose
Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Euphorbia Cerifera Cera
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Beta-Sitosterol
Glyceryl Behenate
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
Ceramide Ng
Lecithin
Tocopherol
Potassium Hydroxide
Gluconolactone
Lactic Acid
Sodium Citrate
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Squalane, Niacinamide, Saccharide Isomerate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Diheptyl Succinate, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lauryl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Lactate, Phytic Acid, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Sucrose, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Beta-Sitosterol, Glyceryl Behenate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Oleic Acid, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ng, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Potassium Hydroxide, Gluconolactone, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Oleic Acid is an Omega-9 fatty acid that can be found naturally in your skin's sebum and in many plant oils such as avocado and olive oil.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and prevent moisture loss.
Research shows:
A 1998 study did find that applying oleic acid at higher concentrations may cause irritation and disrupt the skin barrier. Modern formulations typically use low levels that is well-tolerated.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Oleic Acid, at C18, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Oleic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a crosslinked version of sodium hyaluronate. This just means it's linked into a 3D mesh network that lets it be more stable and sit on skin as a cohesive, gel-like film rather than sinking into skin.
A 2016 human skin study found crosslinked HA increased epidermal water content by 7.6% over the control group and reduced transepidermal water loss by 27.8%.
A follow-up clinical trial found that a topical crosslinked HA serum applied after fillers, microneedling, or chemical peels was well-tolerated and enhanced skin quality at 14 / 28 days.
More recent research suggests that concentrations as low as 0.03% can act as a penetration enhancer for other skincare actives.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.