Calecim Professional Multi-Action Cream Versus Allies of Skin Molecular Barrier Recovery Cream Balm

Calecim Professional Multi-Action Cream Versus Allies of Skin Molecular Barrier Recovery Cream Balm

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Glycoproteins and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Oleic Acid

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetyl Alcohol

1,2-Hexanediol

Glycoproteins

Linoleic Acid

Glyceryl Stearate

Palmitic Acid

Soluble Collagen

PEG-40 Stearate

Ceteareth-20

Serum Albumin

Stearic Acid

Fibronectin

Tocopherol

Potassium Lactate

Disodium EDTA

Hyaluronic Acid

Lactic Acid

Water, Oleic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycoproteins, Linoleic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Soluble Collagen, PEG-40 Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Serum Albumin, Stearic Acid, Fibronectin, Tocopherol, Potassium Lactate, Disodium EDTA, Hyaluronic Acid, Lactic Acid

Glycerin

Squalane

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Nigella Sativa Seed Oil

Isomalt

Acacia Senegal Gum

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Canola Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Panthenol

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

Ethyl Macadamiate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Niacinamide

Ceramide NP

Allantoin

Bisabolol

Lecithin

Hydrolyzed Oat Protein

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters

Adenosine Triphosphate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract

Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract

Phytol

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Xanthan Gum

Silica

Dextran

Zea Mays Starch

Sodium Gluconate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Citric Acid

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Sodium Hydroxide

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Potassium Sorbate

Salicylic Acid

Malic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Nigella Sativa Seed Oil, Isomalt, Acacia Senegal Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Canola Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Panthenol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Ethyl Macadamiate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Ceramide NP, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Hyaluronic Acid, Lecithin, Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Adenosine Triphosphate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract, Phytol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Xanthan Gum, Silica, Dextran, Zea Mays Starch, Sodium Gluconate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Sodium Hydroxide, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Potassium Sorbate, Salicylic Acid, Malic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.

Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.

The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.

The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.

A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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