Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

CARE:NEL Peptide Max Rescue Eye Cream Versus Farm Stay Collagen Water Full Moist Rolling Eye Serum

CARE:NEL Peptide Max Rescue Eye Cream Versus Farm Stay Collagen Water Full Moist Rolling Eye Serum This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-aging eye

CARE:NEL Peptide Max Rescue Eye Cream Versus Farm Stay Collagen Water Full Moist Rolling Eye Serum

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Betaine

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

1,2-Hexanediol

Butylene Glycol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hyaluronic Acid

Potassium Hyaluronate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Ceramide NP

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Niacinamide

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Cetearyl Alcohol

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Allantoin

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Adenosine

Chlorphenesin

Ethylhexylglycerin

T-Butyl Alcohol

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Betaine, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Ceramide NP, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Niacinamide, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Adenosine, Chlorphenesin, Ethylhexylglycerin, T-Butyl Alcohol, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

Glycereth-26

Dimethicone

Dipropylene Glycol

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Sea Water

Trehalose

Cyclopentasiloxane

Squalane

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Vegetable Amino Acids

Oat Amino Acids

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethiconol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polysorbate 60

Carbomer

Arginine

Hydroxyacetophenone

Disodium EDTA

Parfum

Hexyl Cinnamal

Citronellol

Geraniol

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Linalool

Limonene

Water, Glycereth-26, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Sea Water, Trehalose, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Vegetable Amino Acids, Oat Amino Acids, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Arginine, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citronellol, Geraniol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Linalool, Limonene

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.

Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:

Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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