Skin science article
Carrot & Stick The Repair Serum Versus In Your Face Bio Peptide EGF6 Firming Serum
Carrot & Stick The Repair Serum Versus In Your Face Bio Peptide EGF6 Firming Serum This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging serum is formula
Carrot & Stick The Repair Serum Versus In Your Face Bio Peptide EGF6 Firming Serum
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Niacinamide
Glycerin
Acacia Senegal Gum
Hydrolyzed Rhizobian Gum
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
PCA
Sodium PCA
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Sodium Hyaluronate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Arginine
Aspartic Acid
Acetyl Glutamine
Lecithin
Carnitine
Alanine
Glycine
Histidine
Isoleucine
Phenylalanine
Proline
Serine
Threonine
Valine
Caffeine
Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract
Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Bacillus
Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract
Codonopsis Lanceolata Extract
Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Digitaria Ciliaris Flower Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract
Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Paeonia Albiflora Flower Extract
Polygonum Odoratum Extract
Sodium Lactate
Polyglutamic Acid
Xanthan Gum
Butylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Citric Acid
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Benzoate
Sodium Levulinate
Potassium Sorbate
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Hydrolyzed Rhizobian Gum, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, PCA, Sodium PCA, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Acetyl Glutamine, Lecithin, Carnitine, Alanine, Glycine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Valine, Caffeine, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Bacillus, Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract, Codonopsis Lanceolata Extract, Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Digitaria Ciliaris Flower Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Flower Extract, Polygonum Odoratum Extract, Sodium Lactate, Polyglutamic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Rosa Damascena Flower Water
Squalane
Pentylene Glycol
Propanediol
Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
Copper Tripeptide-1
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Sphingomonas Ferment Extract
Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
Maltodextrin
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Boswellia Serrata Oil
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Squalane, Pentylene Glycol, Water, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Propanediol, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Glycerin, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Arginine, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sphingomonas Ferment Extract, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Maltodextrin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Boswellia Serrata Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
We don't have a description for Acetyl Glutamine yet.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.
In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.
Studies find EGF help with:
In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.
According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:
There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.
This peptide has similar properties to Sh-Oligopeptide-1.
There is also controversy surrounding EGF. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.
Sh-Polypeptide-1 is a signal peptide that tells our cells to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.
It is important to note this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.
Sh-Polypeptide-11 is a signal protein that tells our skin to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.
Sh-Polypeptide-9 is a signal peptide that tells our body to create more blood vessels.
It is important to note, this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!