Skin science article
Caudalie Resveratrol Lift Instant Firming Serum Versus Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum with Ceramides and Peptide
Caudalie Resveratrol Lift Instant Firming Serum Versus Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum with Ceramides and Peptide This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract and Hyaluronic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and br
Caudalie Resveratrol Lift Instant Firming Serum Versus Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum with Ceramides and Peptide
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract and Hyaluronic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Hexyldecanol
Hexyldecyl Laurate
Squalane
Tocopheryl Acetate
C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate
Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract
C20-22 Alcohols
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Caprylyl Glycol
Parfum
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Dehydroacetate
Hyaluronic Acid
Adenosine
Sodium Hydroxide
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Phytate
Khaya Senegalensis Bark Extract
Maltodextrin
Linalool
Limonene
Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Coumarin
Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-47
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate, Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract, C20-22 Alcohols, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Hyaluronic Acid, Adenosine, Sodium Hydroxide, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Phytate, Khaya Senegalensis Bark Extract, Maltodextrin, Linalool, Limonene, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Coumarin, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-47
Niacinamide
Cetyl Alcohol
Isohexadecane
Isononyl Isononanoate
Diisopropyl Sebacate
2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol
4-T-Butylcyclohexanol
Ceramide NP
Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine
Lauroyl Lysine
Octyldodecanol
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Sodium Chloride
Sodium Hyaluronate
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Retinol
Tocopherol
Dicaprylyl Ether
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Behenyl Alcohol
Carbomer
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Glucoside
Glycine Soja Oil
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Lecithin
Phenethyl Alcohol
Poloxamer 188
Polycaprolactone
Sorbitan Laurate
Steareth-100
CI 40800
Chlorphenesin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Cetyl Alcohol, Isohexadecane, Isononyl Isononanoate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, 2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Adenosine, Ceramide NP, Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine, Lauroyl Lysine, Octyldodecanol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Retinol, Tocopherol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Behenyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycine Soja Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lecithin, Phenethyl Alcohol, Poloxamer 188, Polycaprolactone, Sorbitan Laurate, Steareth-100, CI 40800, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a peptide composed of amino acids arginine and tyrosine.
This peptide is considered a neurotransmitter peptide, meaning it has pain-relieving and relaxing properties. It has the ability to calm skin irritation from external factors such as chemical stinging or heat.
Neurotransmitter peptides are also often called "botox in a bottle". This is because these peptides have the ability to relax the muscles.
Though relaxing the muscles can prevent expression lines (as we have seen in botox), the studies do not show these peptides to be a botox replacement. The effects of this muscle relaxation is also short-term, as opposed to longer-term results from botox.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!