Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Caudalie Vinohydra Sorbet Cream Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Barrier Repair Advanced Moisturizer

Caudalie Vinohydra Sorbet Cream Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Barrier Repair Advanced Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. What's inside Key Ingredients B

Caudalie Vinohydra Sorbet Cream Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Barrier Repair Advanced Moisturizer

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water

Dicaprylyl Ether

Glycerin

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract

Hexyldecanol

Hexyldecyl Laurate

Palmitoyl Grape Seed Extract

Behenyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Erythritol

Lecithin

Mannitol

Tocopherol

Caprylyl Glycol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Benzoate

Vitis Vinifera Juice

Glycine Soja Sterols

Butylene Glycol

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Citric Acid

Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Phytate

Potassium Sorbate

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Levulinate

Glyceryl Caprylate

Homarine Hcl

Sodium Anisate

Alcohol

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15

Parfum

Water, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract, Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate, Palmitoyl Grape Seed Extract, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Erythritol, Lecithin, Mannitol, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Vitis Vinifera Juice, Glycine Soja Sterols, Butylene Glycol, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Phytate, Potassium Sorbate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Levulinate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Homarine Hcl, Sodium Anisate, Alcohol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15, Parfum

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Cocoglycerides

Squalane

Sodium Polyacrylate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide As

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide EOP

Adenosine

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Hexylene Glycol

2,3-Butanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium PCA

Urea

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Trehalose

Polyquaternium-51

Triacetin

Cholesterol

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Glycerin, Cocoglycerides, Squalane, Sodium Polyacrylate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide As, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide EOP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hexylene Glycol, Tocopherol, 2,3-Butanediol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phytate, Sodium PCA, Urea, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Trehalose, Polyquaternium-51, Triacetin, Cholesterol, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.

Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  4. 04Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  5. 05Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  6. 06Retinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).
  7. 07It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.
  8. 08That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.
  9. 09Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.
  10. 10Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.
  11. 11Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.
  12. 12Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.
  13. 13The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.
  14. 14Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.
  15. 15In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:
  16. 16That last two are worth a closer look.
  17. 17A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. An…
  18. 18Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.
  19. 19So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).
  20. 20It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice 5% Niacinamide Body Serum

Paula's Choice 5% Niacinamide Body Serum Paula's Choice 5% Niacinamide Body Serum ingredients explained: Water⁠, Panthenol⁠, Niacinamide⁠, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride⁠, Myristyl Myristate⁠…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side