Caudalie Vinosource-Hydra S.O.S. Intense Moisturizer Versus Shani Darden Hydration Peptide Cream

Caudalie Vinosource-Hydra S.O.S. Intense Moisturizer Versus Shani Darden Hydration Peptide Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Borago Officinalis Seed Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Ethylhexyl Cocoate

Squalane

Cetearyl Alcohol

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Palmitoyl Grape Seed Extract

Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Oleyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Glucoside

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters

Tocopheryl Acetate

Carbomer

Caprylyl Glycol

Potassium Sorbate

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Sodium Hydroxide

Tocopherol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Vitis Vinifera Juice

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Citric Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Benzoate

Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Squalane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Palmitoyl Grape Seed Extract, Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Oleyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Juice, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Citric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Benzoate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Parfum

Propanediol

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Niacinamide

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Ceramide Ng

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract

Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

Tribehenin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Lactic Acid

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Phytate

Lecithin

Betaine

Erythritol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Squalane, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Niacinamide, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide Ng, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Tocopherol, Tribehenin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lactic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Phytate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lecithin, Betaine, Erythritol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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