Celimax Pore + Dark Spot Brightening Cream Versus APLB Ascorbyl Glucoside Peptide Facial Cream

Celimax Pore + Dark Spot Brightening Cream Versus APLB Ascorbyl Glucoside Peptide Facial Cream

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and refine the look of pores.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Leaf Water and Ascorbyl Glucoside to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Niacinamide

Tranexamic Acid

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dipropylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Phenyl Trimethicone

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Dicaprylyl Ether

Vinyldimethicone

Cetearyl Alcohol

Propanediol

Cetearyl Olivate

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Sorbitan Olivate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Behenyl Alcohol

Dimethiconol

Cetearyl Glucoside

Laminaria Japonica Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ceramide NP

Betaine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Fructooligosaccharides

Adenosine

Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract

Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Cholesterol

Butylene Glycol

Beta-Glucan

Mentha Viridis Extract

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Dextrin

Tocopherol

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide

Glyceryl Stearate

Ceramide As

Ceramide AP

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide EOP

Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Phenyl Trimethicone, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Dicaprylyl Ether, Vinyldimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Sorbitan Olivate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethiconol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Betaine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Fructooligosaccharides, Adenosine, Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Cholesterol, Butylene Glycol, Beta-Glucan, Mentha Viridis Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Dextrin, Tocopherol, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide EOP

Centella Asiatica Leaf Water

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sodium Hyaluronate

Stearic Acid

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Trideceth-10

Silica

Beeswax

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Trehalose

Citric Acid

Nelumbo Nucifera Extract

Artemisia Annua Extract

Oryza Sativa Extract

Saccharomyces Ferment

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Squalane

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract

Madecassic Acid

Asiaticoside

Asiatic Acid

Disodium EDTA

Hydroxyacetophenone

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sodium Hyaluronate, Stearic Acid, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-10, Silica, Glyceryl Stearate, Beeswax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Betaine, Trehalose, Citric Acid, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Squalane, Beta-Glucan, Dipropylene Glycol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Propanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.

It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.

On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin

The more interesting story is underneath:

Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.

A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.

It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.

This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.

Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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