Skin science article
CeraVe AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF 25 Versus The INKEY List Multi-Biotic Moisturizer
CeraVe AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF 25 Versus The INKEY List Multi-Biotic Moisturizer This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturizer is
CeraVe AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF 25 Versus The INKEY List Multi-Biotic Moisturizer
This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Inulin and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Homosalate
Glycerin
Octocrylene
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Niacinamide
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Dimethicone
Cetearyl Alcohol
PEG-100 Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Phenoxyethanol
Stearic Acid
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
Caprylyl Glycol
Palmitic Acid
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Xanthan Gum
Disodium EDTA
Tocopherol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Myristic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Carbomer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Ceramide EOP
Water, Homosalate, Glycerin, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Niacinamide, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Stearic Acid, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Caprylyl Glycol, Palmitic Acid, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Myristic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ceramide EOP
Inulin
Isoamyl Laurate
Propanediol
Squalane
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Avena Sativa Kernel Oil
Yogurt Powder
Sodium Caproyl Prolinate
Isoamyl Cocoate
Benzyl Alcohol
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Diglucosyl Gallic Acid
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Dehydroacetic Acid
Polysorbate 60
Citric Acid
Heptapeptide-7
Lecithin
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Water, Inulin, Glycerin, Isoamyl Laurate, Propanediol, Squalane, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Yogurt Powder, Sodium Caproyl Prolinate, Carbomer, Isoamyl Cocoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Citric Acid, Heptapeptide-7, Lecithin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Sorbitan Isostearate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.