Skin science article
CeraVe AM Facial Moisturizing Lotion With SPF 50 Versus The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30
CeraVe AM Facial Moisturizing Lotion With SPF 50 Versus The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30 This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This chemical s
CeraVe AM Facial Moisturizing Lotion With SPF 50 Versus The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30
This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Isopropyl Palmitate
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Niacinamide
Pentylene Glycol
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Propanediol
Zea Mays Starch
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Diisopropyl Sebacate
Oryza Sativa Cera
Oryza Sativa Bran Wax
Stearic Acid
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Carbomer
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Triethanolamine
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
Triethyl Citrate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Myristic Acid
Cholesterol
Palmitic Acid
Tocopherol
Caprylyl Glycol
Citric Acid
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Xanthan Gum
Phytosphingosine
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Benzoic Acid
PEG-100 Stearate
Water, Glycerin, Isopropyl Palmitate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Propanediol, Zea Mays Starch, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Oryza Sativa Cera, Oryza Sativa Bran Wax, Stearic Acid, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Carbomer, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Triethyl Citrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Myristic Acid, Cholesterol, Palmitic Acid, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Xanthan Gum, Phytosphingosine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Benzoic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate
Octocrylene
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid
Triheptanoin
Saccharomyces Ferment
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Tromethamine
Glyceryl Caprylate
C9-12 Alkane
Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Dimethicone
Squalane
Hectorite
Lauroyl Lysine
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Dimethiconol
Polysorbate 60
Oryza Sativa Hull Extract
Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Phenoxyethanol
Polyglutamic Acid
Sorbitan Isostearate
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Benzoate
1,2-Hexanediol
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Saccharomyces Lysate
Water, Octocrylene, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Triheptanoin, Saccharomyces Ferment, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Caprylate, Propanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dimethicone, Squalane, Hectorite, Lauroyl Lysine, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Dimethiconol, Polysorbate 60, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Oryza Sativa Hull Extract, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglutamic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Saccharomyces Lysate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Also known as Avobenzone, this ingredient is an oil-soluble used to absorb the full spectrum of UVA rays (peak 357 nm).
It's one of the most effective UVA filters available but has a major caveat of photostability: avobenzone is susceptible to photodegradation.
This means it can lose efficacy when exposed to sunlight without the help of a stabilizing agent.
Studies show antioxidants (like vitamin E or vitamin C) and some UV filters (like octocrylene and Tinosorb S) can meaningfully improve its stability in a formulation.
The maximum allowable concentration according to regulation is 3% in the US + Canada, and 5% in the EU, Australia, China, Korea, and ASEAN countries.
It has a well-support safety profile: a comprehensive 2025 review found minimal toxicity with no evidence of carcinogenicity.
Overall, avobenzone is a safe and regulated ingredient used in sunscreen for over 40 years.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Ethylhexyl Salicylate (also called Octisalate or Octyl Salicylate) is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that's been used in sunscreen since the 1950's.
It absorbs UVB light in the 280-320 nm range with a peak absorbance around 306 nm.
You'll often see it paired with other UV filters to boost overall SPF because octisalate is a fairly week filter on its own.
The reason you'll see it so often is because it can help solubilize and stabilize the trickier filters like oxybenzone and avobenzone.
Unlike these filters, octisalate has pretty good photostability and doesn't create skin-damaging free radicals when exposed to sunlight.
The fatty-alcohol part of the molecule also gives it a light, emollient feel so it doubles as a nice texture enhancer.
Usage levels vary around the world:
Safety-wise, this ingredient has a pretty reassuring track record. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) found very low skin penetration in human skin tests and negative results for irritation, phototoxicity, and photoallergy.
The real-world allergy risk is pretty low too; a 2012 European study of 1,031 people recorded only 2 reactions to it (a rate of 0.19%).
You might have seen scary headlines about sunscreen getting into your blood.
In 2019, the FDA found that several chemical filters can absorb through the skin and show up in the bloodstream at small but measurable levels.
Here's the important part: these tiny levels are just a cutoff the FDA uses to decide which ingredients need more testing and doesn't mean anything harmful was found.
The researchers were clear that the results are no reason to stop wearing sunscreen.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!