Skin science article
CeraVe Eye Repair Cream Versus Summer Fridays Light Aura Vitamin C + Peptide Eye Cream
CeraVe Eye Repair Cream Versus Summer Fridays Light Aura Vitamin C + Peptide Eye Cream This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This brightening eye moisturizer is for
CeraVe Eye Repair Cream Versus Summer Fridays Light Aura Vitamin C + Peptide Eye Cream
This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Niacinamide
Cetyl Alcohol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycerin
Propanediol
Isononyl Isononanoate
Jojoba Esters
PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Dimethicone
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Asparagopsis Armata Extract
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Potassium Sorbate
Ceramide EOP
Sorbitol
Carbomer
Zinc Citrate
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
Triethanolamine
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Sodium Hydroxide
Equisetum Arvense Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cholesterol
Phenoxyethanol
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Tocopherol
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
Laureth-4
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Tetrasodium EDTA
Maltodextrin
Phytosphingosine
Xanthan Gum
Butylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract
Water, Niacinamide, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Propanediol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Jojoba Esters, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Potassium Sorbate, Ceramide EOP, Sorbitol, Carbomer, Zinc Citrate, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Triethanolamine, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cholesterol, Phenoxyethanol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Tocopherol, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Laureth-4, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Tetrasodium EDTA, Maltodextrin, Phytosphingosine, Xanthan Gum, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract
Behenyl Alcohol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Pentylene Glycol
Coco-Caprylate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Isostearyl Isostearate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Persea Gratissima Oil
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
Caffeine
Allantoin
Phospholipids
Papaver Rhoeas Extract
Carica Papaya Leaf Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract
Pisum Sativum Extract
Glucosamine Hcl
Silica
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Polyglycerin-3
Diheptyl Succinate
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Sorbitan Isostearate
Sodium Phytate
Glyceryl Caprylate
Glyceryl Undecylenate
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Benzoate
Phenethyl Alcohol
Polysorbate 60
Mica
CI 77891
Water, Behenyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Pentylene Glycol, Coco-Caprylate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Jojoba Esters, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Persea Gratissima Oil, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Caffeine, Allantoin, Propanediol, Phospholipids, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Papaver Rhoeas Extract, Tocopherol, Carica Papaya Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Glucosamine Hcl, Silica, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyglycerin-3, Diheptyl Succinate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Phytate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Xanthan Gum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenethyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Mica, CI 77891
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Jojoba Esters is a wax created from Jojoba oil. It is an emollient and film-forming ingredient. In bead form, it is an exfoliator.
This ingredient has high oxidative stability, meaning it doesn't break down when exposed to oxygen.
Its similarity to our skin's natural oils makes it a great emollient. Emollients help soften and soothe our skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier helps trap moisture in, keeping skin hydrated.
It is created using either the hydrogenation or transesterification processes on jojoba oil.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
This ingredient is also known as sweet almond oil. It is a lightweight, cold-pressed oil from the ripe seeds of the sweet almond tree.
Sweet almond oil is rich in skin-nourishing fatty acids such as oleic acid (55-86%) and linolenic acid (7-35%).
As an emollient, it softens and hydrates skin by forming a thin barrier that locks in moisture.
Clinical studies have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing. The CIR Expert Panel has evaluated the available safety data and concluded it is safe for topical use.
Because of the oleic acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.