Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

CeraVe Skin Renewing Retinol Serum Versus The INKEY List Bakuchiol Moisturizer

CeraVe Skin Renewing Retinol Serum Versus The INKEY List Bakuchiol Moisturizer This anti-aging serum is formulated around Ceramide NP and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Bakuc

CeraVe Skin Renewing Retinol Serum Versus The INKEY List Bakuchiol Moisturizer

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Ceramide NP and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Bakuchiol and Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides

Polysorbate 20

PEG-40 Stearate

Cyclopentasiloxane

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Potassium Phosphate

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Carbomer

Niacinamide

Isoceteth-10

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Triethanolamine

Cetearyl Alcohol

Behentrimonium Methosulfate

Cichorium Intybus Root Extract

Lecithin

Retinol

Silica

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Cholesterol

Phenoxyethanol

Tocopherol

Alcohol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Citric Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Pentylene Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Phytosphingosine

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Polysorbate 20, PEG-40 Stearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Potassium Phosphate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Carbomer, Niacinamide, Isoceteth-10, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Triethanolamine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cichorium Intybus Root Extract, Lecithin, Retinol, Silica, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Cholesterol, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Citric Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Phytosphingosine, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexylglycerin

Squalane

Propanediol

Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Bakuchiol

Sodium Caproyl Prolinate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Polysorbate 60

Phytic Acid

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Water, Squalane, Glycerin, Propanediol, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Bakuchiol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Caproyl Prolinate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polysorbate 60, Phytic Acid, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
  4. 04As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
  5. 05It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
  6. 06A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
  7. 07Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.
  8. 08This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.
  9. 09As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.
  10. 10The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.
  11. 11This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.
  12. 12It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.
  13. 13Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
  14. 14At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.
  15. 15Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  16. 16Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  17. 17In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  18. 18While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  19. 19Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  20. 20This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Brighten-I Eye Cream

The Inkey List Brighten-I Eye Cream The Inkey List Brighten-I Eye Cream ingredients explained: Water (Aqua/Eau), Cyclopentasiloxane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Trigly…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

The Inkey List Oat Balm Cleanser

The Inkey List Oat Balm Cleanser The Inkey List Oat Balm Cleanser ingredients explained: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kerne…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side