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Skin science article

Cetaphil Advanced Relief Lotion With Shea Butter Versus Paula's Choice Clear Pore Normalizing Cleanser

Cetaphil Advanced Relief Lotion With Shea Butter Versus Paula's Choice Clear Pore Normalizing Cleanser This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This salicyli

Cetaphil Advanced Relief Lotion With Shea Butter Versus Paula's Choice Clear Pore Normalizing Cleanser

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This salicylic acid gel cleanser is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Isopropyl Palmitate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Cetearyl Alcohol

Ceteareth-20

Dimethicone

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Panthenol

Niacinamide

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium PCA

Pantolactone

Glyceryl Stearate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Citric Acid

Water, Glycerin, Isopropyl Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium PCA, Pantolactone, Glyceryl Stearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid

Salicylic Acid

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate

Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer

PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate

Sodium Laureth Sulfate

Arginine

Butylene Glycol

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate

Disodium EDTA

PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Sodium Citrate

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Salicylic Acid, Water, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Glycerin, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Arginine, Butylene Glycol, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Panthenol, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.
  4. 04It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.
  5. 05As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.
  6. 06Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited.
  7. 07Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:
  8. 08Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.
  9. 09It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behav…
  10. 10Avena Sativa Kernel Extract is is derived from colloidal oatmeal. Besides being a healthy breakfast, oats have many benefits in skincare too.
  11. 11This ingredient helps sooth, hydrate, and protect the skin. The starches in colloidal oatmeal are able to bind water, keeping the skin hydrated.
  12. 12The cellulose and fiber in colloidal oatmeal help reduce inflammation. This can also help the skin feel softer.
  13. 13Colloidal Oatmeal is also an antioxidant. Antioxidants protect our skin from free-radical damage.
  14. 14Oatmeal also contains beneficial compounds:
  15. 15This ingredient is created by mixing grounded oatmeal and a liquid base.
  16. 16Beta-Sitosterol is a plant-derived fatty acid with a structure similar to cholesterol (which naturally occurs in skin). It helps hydrate the skin and stabilize formulations.
  17. 17This ingredient can be naturally found in fruits, veggies, nuts, and seeds.
  18. 18Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  19. 19Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  20. 20In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
Source · skinsort.com
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Comparison edit

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