Chantecaille 24K Gold Energizing Face Cream Versus Chantecaille Bio Lifting Serum+

Chantecaille 24K Gold Energizing Face Cream Versus Chantecaille Bio Lifting Serum+

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Rosa Damascena Flower Water and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Rosa Damascena Flower Water and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Cyclopentasiloxane

Glycerin

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Propanediol

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

PEG-40 Stearate

Myristyl Myristate

Cetyl Alcohol

Sorbitan Tristearate

Stearic Acid

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Dimethicone

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Polyacrylamide

Caprylyl Glycol

Diphenyl Dimethicone

Sorbitol

PPG-25-Laureth-25

Mica

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Butylene Glycol

Pullulan

Bisabolol

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Oenothera Biennis Oil

CI 77891

Squalane

Xanthan Gum

Dimethiconol

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Laureth-7

Sodium Polyacrylate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Maltodextrin

Hexylene Glycol

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Acacia Dealbata Flower Wax

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Wax

Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax

Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract

Panthenol

Phytic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

PEG-8

CI 77491

Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract

Alcohol

Escin

Tocopherol

Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract

Ammonium Glycyrrhizate

Centella Asiatica Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Echinacea Angustifolia Root Extract

Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture

Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract

Sodium Citrate

Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract

Glyceryl Caprylate

Ascorbic Acid

Citric Acid

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Acetyl Heptapeptide-9

Colloidal Gold

Citronellol

Geraniol

Linalool

Citral

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Benzyl Alcohol

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Sorbic Acid

Undecylenic Acid

Benzoic Acid

Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Propanediol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, PEG-40 Stearate, Myristyl Myristate, Cetyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Tristearate, Stearic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Polyacrylamide, Caprylyl Glycol, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Sorbitol, PPG-25-Laureth-25, Mica, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Butylene Glycol, Pullulan, Bisabolol, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, CI 77891, Squalane, Xanthan Gum, Dimethiconol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Laureth-7, Sodium Polyacrylate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Maltodextrin, Hexylene Glycol, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Acacia Dealbata Flower Wax, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Wax, Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax, Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Panthenol, Phytic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, PEG-8, CI 77491, Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract, Alcohol, Escin, Tocopherol, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Echinacea Angustifolia Root Extract, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Sodium Citrate, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Acetyl Heptapeptide-9, Colloidal Gold, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool, Citral, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Sorbic Acid, Undecylenic Acid, Benzoic Acid

Water

Methyl Gluceth-20

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Diglycerin

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Ethylhexylglycerin

PPG-26-Buteth-26

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Pentylene Glycol

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Psilanthus Bengalensis Leaf Cell Culture Extract

Carbomer

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Rubus Idaeus Leaf Cell Culture

Acetyl Hexapeptide-38

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Diglycerin, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Pullulan, Xanthan Gum, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Citric Acid, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Psilanthus Bengalensis Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Cell Culture, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, Acetyl Hexapeptide-38, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".

Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.

Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.

Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,

Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.

Geraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.

Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.

Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.

Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.

Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.

Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.

2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Maltodextrin is a plant-derived carbohydrate made by breaking down starch (usually from corn, potato, or rice). In cosmetic formulas, it's a multitasking absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and skin conditioner.

This ingredient is mostly used to stabilize emulsions and improve the powdery, non-greasy feel of products (like dry shampoos).

Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty solid; it's even recognized as a food additive. Both animal and clinical studies found no adverse effects at the levels used in cosmetics.

Industry data shows this ingredient is used up to 45.7% in spray products and up to 33% in powder products.

We don't have a description for Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture yet.

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil is the pressed oil of the Rose Geranium plant. It has perfuming and masking properties.

This ingredient contains citronellol and geraniol. These compounds may cause allergies and skin-sensitivity.

The scent of Rose Geranium closely resembles. you guessed it: roses.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

We don't have a description for Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract yet.

Pullulan is a low viscosity polysaccharide (a long chain carbohydrate) with binding and film forming properties when dissolved in water. It is used to create a "silicone-like" or silky feel in cosmetics without adding viscosity.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient's ability to easily dissolves makes it a great carrier for active ingredients.

Due to it being edible and tasteless, you'll likely find this ingredient in breath freshener strips. This ingredient is produced from the starch of the fungus, Aureobasidium pullulans.

Pullulan is stable over a broad-range of pH.

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil is an essential oil made from the Damask Rose. It is often used as a fragrance in cosmetics.

Rose Oil has antibacterial and antioxidant properties due to its terpene, glycoside, flavonoid, anthocyanin, and Vitamin C content.

Other major parts of Rose Oil include citronellol and geraniol. Both of these are known EU allergens and cause contact-allergies.

The downsides of this ingredient outweight the positives.

Rosa Damascena Flower Water is the water-based byproduct of steam-distilling damask rose petals. It has skin conditioning, masking, and skin protecting properties.

Research shows that Rosa damascena is rich in flavonoids and phenolic compounds like gallic acid that contribute to its antioxidant activity.

In vitro studies have shown that Rosa damascena can scavenge free radicals and reduce melanin overproduction. Research has also found this extract offers some degree of UV absorption but this should not replace your sunscreen.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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