Chantecaille Bio Lifting Mask+ Versus DRMTLGY Peptide Night Cream

Chantecaille Bio Lifting Mask+ Versus DRMTLGY Peptide Night Cream

This wash off mask is made with Avena Sativa Kernel Extract and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 for a rinse-off barrier-support boost.

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Propanediol

Glycerin

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Carbomer

Saccharide Isomerate

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Pullulan

CI 77891

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Hydroxide

C12-13 Alkyl Lactate

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Chondrus Crispus Powder

Bisabolol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Brassica Campestris Seed Oil

Pentylene Glycol

Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract

Phytic Acid

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Citrate

Acacia Dealbata Flower Wax

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Wax

Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Citric Acid

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Centella Asiatica Extract

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Biotin

Citronellol

Geraniol

Linalool

Citral

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Carbomer, Saccharide Isomerate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Pullulan, CI 77891, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Hydroxide, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Bisabolol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Phytic Acid, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Citrate, Acacia Dealbata Flower Wax, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Wax, Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Citric Acid, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Centella Asiatica Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Biotin, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool, Citral

Glyceryl Stearate

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Isopropyl Palmitate

Undecane

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Cetyl Alcohol

Dimethicone

PEG-100 Stearate

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Tridecane

Allantoin

Tocopherol

Glycol Distearate

Butylene Glycol

Polysorbate 20

Dextran

Magnesium Chloride

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Xanthan Gum

Water, Glyceryl Stearate, Propanediol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Isopropyl Palmitate, Undecane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, PEG-100 Stearate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Tridecane, Allantoin, Tocopherol, Glycol Distearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Dextran, Magnesium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Xanthan Gum

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is the potassium salt of a mixture. This mixture consists of the esters from phosphoricacid and cetyl alcohol.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is an emulsifier and cleansing agent. Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating.

As a cleansing agent, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate helps gather oils, dirts, and pollutants from your skin. This makes it easier to rinse them away with water.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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