Skin science article
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Eye Creme
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Eye Creme This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Eye Creme
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Butylene Glycol
Polysorbate 60
Olus Oil
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
Glycerin
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
PEG-8
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Dicaprylyl Ether
Sorbitan Stearate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters
Phenoxyethanol
Saccharide Isomerate
C12-16 Alcohols
Cera Alba
Glyceryl Stearate
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Squalane
Ethylhexylglycerin
Chlorphenesin
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Palmitic Acid
Xanthan Gum
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Disodium EDTA
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Polysorbate 20
Sorbitan Isostearate
Sodium Hydroxide
Glycine Soja Protein
Superoxide Dismutase
Citric Acid
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Tocopherol
Sodium Citrate
Sodium Benzoate
Sodium PCA
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Daphne Odora Callus Extract
Sodium Dextran Sulfate
Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture
Aluminum Hydroxide
Retinol
Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ascorbic Acid
Lecithin
Potassium Sorbate
Retinyl Palmitate
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
CI 77891
Iron Oxides
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Olus Oil, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, PEG-8, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Sorbitan Stearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters, Phenoxyethanol, Saccharide Isomerate, C12-16 Alcohols, Cera Alba, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Squalane, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Palmitic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Disodium EDTA, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycine Soja Protein, Superoxide Dismutase, Citric Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Tocopherol, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium PCA, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Daphne Odora Callus Extract, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, Aluminum Hydroxide, Retinol, Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Lecithin, Potassium Sorbate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, CI 77891, Iron Oxides
Dimethicone
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Esters
Cetyl Alcohol
Polybutene
Isostearyl Neopentanoate
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Polyethylene
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Polygonum Aviculare Extract
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Algae Extract
Linoleic Acid
Persea Gratissima Oil
Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Cholesterol
Caffeine
Glucose
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Artemia Extract
Sorbitol
Trehalose
Lauryl PCA
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate
Cetearyl Glucoside
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Acetyl Glucosamine
Carbomer
Whey Protein
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Hyaluronate
1,2-Hexanediol
Faex Extract
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Zinc PCA
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Sodium Lactate
Potassium Sulfate
BHT
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Mica
CI 77491
Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Esters, Cetyl Alcohol, Polybutene, Isostearyl Neopentanoate, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Polyethylene, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Polygonum Aviculare Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Algae Extract, Linoleic Acid, Persea Gratissima Oil, Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Cholesterol, Caffeine, Glucose, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Artemia Extract, Sorbitol, Trehalose, Lauryl PCA, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Carbomer, Whey Protein, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Faex Extract, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Zinc PCA, Sodium PCA, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lactate, Potassium Sulfate, PEG-8, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Polysorbate 20, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Mica, CI 77891, CI 77491
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
PEG-8 is a synthetic polymer used as a humectant and solvent.
This ingredient is able to help dissolve active ingredients, including water. This gives it humectant properties.
It is soluble in water. The number '8' stands for the molecular weight of the ingredient.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Sodium PCA (the salt of PCA) is one of the most well-established humectants in skincare.
Why is it so special? Your skin already makes it naturally; it's a natural component of your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the mix of water-binding compounds inside your skin cells that keeps things soft and hydrated.
As a cosmetic ingredient, it grabs water and holds it in the upper layers of skin to smooth roughness and ease dehydration.
There's some clinical support for the NMF approach with a study showing that a cream built to mimic the skin's NMF significantly boosted hydration.
Safety-wise, this ingredient non-irritating, non-comedogenic, and non-phototoxic in testing, with minimal skin absorption.
It also works really well with other hydrators like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and typical usage is somewhere between 0.2-4%.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!