Skin science article
Charlotte Tilbury Matte Revolution Lipstick Versus rhode Peptide Lip Shape
Charlotte Tilbury Matte Revolution Lipstick Versus rhode Peptide Lip Shape What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate Dimethicone Cera Microcristallina Polye
Charlotte Tilbury Matte Revolution Lipstick Versus rhode Peptide Lip Shape
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate
Dimethicone
Cera Microcristallina
Polyethylene
Polybutene
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Silica
Dicalcium Phosphate
Ethyl Vanillin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Tocopherol
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Zea Mays Oil
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Carica Papaya Fruit Extract
Orchis Mascula Flower Extract
Bixa Orellana Seed Extract
BHT
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tin Oxide
Mica
CI 77891
Iron Oxides
CI 45410
CI 15850
CI 42090
CI 15985
CI 19140
CI 75470
Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate, Dimethicone, Cera Microcristallina, Polyethylene, Polybutene, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Silica, Dicalcium Phosphate, Ethyl Vanillin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopherol, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Zea Mays Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Orchis Mascula Flower Extract, Bixa Orellana Seed Extract, BHT, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tin Oxide, Mica, CI 77891, Iron Oxides, CI 45410, CI 15850, CI 42090, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 75470
Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate
Synthetic Wax
Boron Nitride
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
C20-40 Alcohols
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Seed Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Lactic Acid
Tribehenin
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Aluminum Hydroxide
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Phenoxyethanol
CI 77491
CI 77492
CI 77499
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate, Synthetic Wax, Silica, Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate, Boron Nitride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, C20-40 Alcohols, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Tocopheryl Acetate, Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Seed Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Lactic Acid, Tribehenin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Polyethylene, Sorbitan Isostearate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77891, Iron Oxides, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 15850, CI 42090
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Ci 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.
Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.
This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.
It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.
Ci 42090 is a synthetic dye created from petroleum. It is used to give a bright blue color to cosmetics, medicine, and food.
Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Polyethylene is a synthetic ingredient that helps the skin retain moisture. It is a polymer.
It is also typically used within product formulations to help bind solid ingredients together and thicken oil-based ingredients. When added to balms and emulsions, it helps increase the melting point temperature.
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
This ingredient comes from trimethylolpropane and isostearic acid. It has emollient and skin conditioning properties.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient provides a non-tacky, light, glossy feeling on the skin.
Due to its isotearic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.
This ingredient is a combination of red, black, and yellow iron oxide pigments. This combination of colors is usually found in foundation, because it results in a "skin" color.
The EU typically uses CI numbers for colorants when applicable, such as CI 77489. In the US, iron oxides are regulated as color additives and "iron oxides" is the most commonly used name in US cosmetic practice.
A 2021 paper looked at skincare formulations containing iron oxides and found that they reduced transmission of blue light when measured optically. In simple terms, the pigment particles helped block or scatter part of the visible light spectrum in lab testing and the authors suggest this could translate into better protection against blue-light-related skin effects.
There is also clinical and experimental research showing that tinted products containing iron oxides can reduce visible light-induced pigmentation:
Please note, whether a product reduces visible or blue light depends on things like:
In the EU's CosIng database, iron oxides are only listed as a colorant. CosIng groups ingredients by their main cosmetic role, such as colorant, preservative, or UV filter.
Though studies say iron oxides can "attenuate blue light", they're describing an optical property and not an officially recognized cosmetic function.
So CosIng isn’t contradicting the research. It’s just classifying iron oxides by what they officially are: pigments that add color.