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Skin science article

Chemist at Play 10% Vitamin C Brightening Face Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum

Chemist at Play 10% Vitamin C Brightening Face Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Acetyl Glucosamine to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. Thi

Chemist at Play 10% Vitamin C Brightening Face Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Acetyl Glucosamine to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Ethoxydiglycol

Propanediol

Acetyl Glucosamine

Phenoxyethanol

Allantoin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Gluconate

Lactic Acid

Ceramide Ag

Oryza Sativa Cera

Water, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethoxydiglycol, Propanediol, Acetyl Glucosamine, Phenoxyethanol, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Gluconate, Lactic Acid, Ceramide Ag, Oryza Sativa Cera

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Sodium Hydroxide

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Benzyl Alcohol

Butylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Metabisulfite

Dehydroacetic Acid

Phytic Acid

Oligopeptide-1

Water, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Metabisulfite, Dehydroacetic Acid, Phytic Acid, Oligopeptide-1

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
  4. 04Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
  5. 05Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
  6. 06Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
  7. 07Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
  8. 08Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
  9. 09Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
  10. 10However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
  11. 11Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
  12. 12In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
  13. 13While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
  14. 14Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
  15. 15Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
  16. 16However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's…
  17. 17Coco-Glucoside is a surfactant, or a cleansing ingredient. It is made from glucose and coconut oil.
  18. 18Surfactants help gather dirt, oil, and other pollutants from your skin to be rinsed away.
  19. 19This ingredient is considered gentle and non-comedogenic. However, it may still be irritating for some.
  20. 20Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Niacinamide Serum

The Inkey List Niacinamide Serum The Inkey List Niacinamide Serum ingredients explained: Water (Aqua/Eau), Niacinamide (10%), Glycerin, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxy…

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Product

The Inkey List Hyaluronic Acid Serum

The Inkey List Hyaluronic Acid Serum The Inkey List Hyaluronic Acid Serum ingredients explained: Water (Aqua / Eau), Propanediol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ammonium Acr…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
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Comparison edit

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