Skin science article
Clarins Double Serum Complete Age Control Concentrate Versus Goop Beauty Youth Boost Peptide Serum
Clarins Double Serum Complete Age Control Concentrate Versus Goop Beauty Youth Boost Peptide Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Bifida Ferment Ly
Clarins Double Serum Complete Age Control Concentrate Versus Goop Beauty Youth Boost Peptide Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cetearyl Isononanoate
Glycerin
Isononyl Isononanoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Pentylene Glycol
PPG-3 Myristyl Ether
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Dipsacus Sylvestris Extract
Butylene Glycol
Parfum
Phenoxyethanol
Propanediol
Tromethamine
Silybum Marianum Seed Oil
Carbomer
Tocopheryl Acetate
Escin
Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Squalane
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
Xanthan Gum
Persea Gratissima Oil Unsaponifiables
Caramel
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine
Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract
Salicornia Herbacea Extract
Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract
Kalanchoe Pinnata Leaf Extract
Sodium Benzoate
Citric Acid
Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract
Disodium EDTA
Tocopherol
Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
Maltodextrin
Orthosiphon Stamineus Extract
Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract
Mangifera Indica Leaf Extract
Potassium Sorbate
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Jania Rubens Extract
Ascorbic Acid
Sodium Citrate
Engelhardtia Chrysolepis Leaf Extract
CI 14700
Callicarpa Japonica Fruit Extract
Water, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, PPG-3 Myristyl Ether, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Dipsacus Sylvestris Extract, Butylene Glycol, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Propanediol, Tromethamine, Silybum Marianum Seed Oil, Carbomer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Escin, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Squalane, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Xanthan Gum, Persea Gratissima Oil Unsaponifiables, Caramel, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract, Kalanchoe Pinnata Leaf Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Maltodextrin, Orthosiphon Stamineus Extract, Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract, Mangifera Indica Leaf Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Jania Rubens Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Engelhardtia Chrysolepis Leaf Extract, CI 14700, Callicarpa Japonica Fruit Extract
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes
Niacinamide
Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Daemonorops Draco Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract
Acmella Oleracea Extract
Triethyl Citrate
Sodium Levulinate
Salicylic Acid
Carnosine
Gluconolactone
Ceramide NP
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Phytate
Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
Coriandrum Sativum Fruit Oil
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
2-Hexanol
Canarium Luzonicum Gum Nonvolatiles
Piper Nigrum Fruit Oil
Heptapeptide-7
Lecithin
Boswellia Carterii Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Commiphora Myrrha Oil
Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Oil
Zingiber Officinale Root Oil
Calcium Gluconate
Ferula Galbaniflua Resin Oil
Limonene
Linalool
Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Propanediol, Daemonorops Draco Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Squalane, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Xanthan Gum, Triethyl Citrate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate, Salicylic Acid, Tocopherol, Carnosine, Gluconolactone, Ceramide NP, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Phytate, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Coriandrum Sativum Fruit Oil, Maltodextrin, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, 2-Hexanol, Canarium Luzonicum Gum Nonvolatiles, Piper Nigrum Fruit Oil, Citric Acid, Heptapeptide-7, Lecithin, Boswellia Carterii Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Commiphora Myrrha Oil, Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Oil, Zingiber Officinale Root Oil, Calcium Gluconate, Ferula Galbaniflua Resin Oil, Limonene, Linalool
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Maltodextrin is a plant-derived carbohydrate made by breaking down starch (usually from corn, potato, or rice). In cosmetic formulas, it's a multitasking absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and skin conditioner.
This ingredient is mostly used to stabilize emulsions and improve the powdery, non-greasy feel of products (like dry shampoos).
Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty solid; it's even recognized as a food additive. Both animal and clinical studies found no adverse effects at the levels used in cosmetics.
Industry data shows this ingredient is used up to 45.7% in spray products and up to 33% in powder products.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.