Skin science article
Clarins Double Serum Complete Age-Defying Concentrate Versus Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream
Clarins Double Serum Complete Age-Defying Concentrate Versus Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream This anti-aging serum is formulated around Squalane and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-aging moisturizer i
Clarins Double Serum Complete Age-Defying Concentrate Versus Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Squalane and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Squalane
Hexyl Laurate
Glycerin
Pentylene Glycol
Propanediol
Silybum Marianum Seed Oil
Butylene Glycol
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Parfum
Fructose
Tromethamine
Carbomer
Hydroxyacetophenone
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Escin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract
Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract
Disodium EDTA
Maltodextrin
Xanthan Gum
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Persea Gratissima Oil Unsaponifiables
Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Caramel
Hippophae Rhamnoides Kernel Extract
Sodium Lactate
Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract
Oenothera Biennis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Harungana Madagascariensis Extract
Kalanchoe Pinnata Leaf Extract
Mangifera Indica Leaf Extract
Sodium Benzoate
Citric Acid
Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract
Tocopherol
Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract
Coco-Glucoside
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Dipsacus Sylvestris Extract
Glycine Soja Oil
Arundo Donax Stem Extract
Jania Rubens Extract
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Citrate
Malpighia Emarginata Seed Extract
Arbutus Unedo Fruit Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
CI 14700
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Water, Squalane, Hexyl Laurate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Silybum Marianum Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Parfum, Fructose, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Escin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract, Disodium EDTA, Maltodextrin, Xanthan Gum, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Persea Gratissima Oil Unsaponifiables, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Caramel, Hippophae Rhamnoides Kernel Extract, Sodium Lactate, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Harungana Madagascariensis Extract, Kalanchoe Pinnata Leaf Extract, Mangifera Indica Leaf Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract, Coco-Glucoside, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Dipsacus Sylvestris Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Arundo Donax Stem Extract, Jania Rubens Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Citrate, Malpighia Emarginata Seed Extract, Arbutus Unedo Fruit Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, CI 14700, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Dimethicone
Cetearyl Alcohol
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Alcohol Denat.
Cetearyl Isononanoate
Niacinamide
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Isopropyl Palmitate
Octyldodecanol
Cyclodextrin
Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein
Pisum Sativum Extract
Adenosine
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Cera Alba
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Butter
Cetearyl Glucoside
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Polysorbate 60
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer
Benzyl Alcohol
Geraniol
Limonene
Chlorphenesin
Dipropylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Alcohol Denat., Cetearyl Isononanoate, Niacinamide, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Octyldodecanol, Cyclodextrin, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Pisum Sativum Extract, Adenosine, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cera Alba, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Butter, Cetearyl Glucoside, Citric Acid, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol, Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Benzyl Alcohol, Geraniol, Limonene, Chlorphenesin, Dipropylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.
It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.
This ingredient is oil-soluble.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!